Elemental Mixology

Real About Rum (with a new drink recipe at the end)

2011-10-07T10:28:00.000-07:00

Rum is in (and has been for some time). Check out my latest blog post that goes into the types of rum and gives a new rum-based drink that I have been enjoying:
http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com/2011/10/07/real-about-rum-with-a-new-drink-recipe-at-the-end/

Basic Mixing Stock for a Superior Home Bar

2011-09-30T02:22:00.000-07:00

(click on the page for an enlargeable image of it)

News

2011-09-14T23:09:00.000-07:00

Greetings all!
I haven't been keeping up here...
Please check http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com for recent posts on the other Elemental Mixology blog.
Please check http://www.elementalmixology.com for the book or courses or featured drink recipes.

Liquor Recommendations

2011-05-16T15:16:00.001-07:00

My liquor recommendations is available to anyone interested as a .pdf file. E-mail andrew@elementalmixology.com if you would like it.

Elemental Mixology Recipe Book - finally available!

2011-05-04T13:43:00.000-07:00

This 720 page book (by myself) contains more than 3,500 drinks from a manageable number of easily-mastered basic forms that cover all types of mixed drinks, old and new, each one set to pre-prohibition standards, with historic sources noted, and presented in sections by genre and sub-genre - with a section of liquor recommendations, and a complete index of mixed drinks.

The book may be ordered through www.elementalmixology.com

Elemental Mixology Courses News

2011-04-23T18:01:00.001-07:00

I must announce that, since I am due to become someone's father in August, I will be taking a hiatus from the courses after that. That means that the current courses listed at www.elementalmixology.com will be the last ones available for a while. If you have been waiting to take the EMDC, the time to wait has ended! The course will fill up quickly and this post must serve as everyone's fair and equal notice!
All is not lost for those who do not get in - the courses will resume in November.

Attention: Elemental Mixology Mixed Drinks Course Alumni

2011-04-12T17:36:00.000-07:00

Greetings!

I am preparing a written test for the Elemental Mixology Mixed Drinks Course. The test will not be a required part of taking the course. Any student who chooses to take the test and passes it will receive a certificate to the effect that they have passed the EMDC test and will be given an e-mail address in the Elemental Mixology domain, should it be desired. The addresses will be in the forms of:

alumna_Femalegivenname@elementalmixology.com (for women)

alumnus_Malegivenname@elementalmixology.com (for men)

That might be a more interesting e-mail address for a bartending resume or other drink-related endeavors.

When your address is set, an e-mail will be sent to your other e-mail address with confirmation of your address and a temporary password that you may change.

Any prior students who have completed EMDC within the past two years may take the test when I give it. Anyone interested in repeating EMDC is always allowed to sign up for it at a discounted rate in the last week before the course begins, provided there are any spaces left. More information about the course can be found at www.elementalmixology.com

Anyone interested in taking the test should e-mail me at: andrew@elementalmixology.com

- Andrew

EMRT - Rare Liquors Tasting Available!

2011-04-12T12:47:00.001-07:00

The Elemental Mixology Rarities Tasting is still open! Come and taste 12 liquors that you can't buy in Los Angeles! 11 of them are unavailable anywhere in the U.S.A. Follow the link below for more details:
EMRT

Fabrication Course Open!

2011-04-12T12:42:00.001-07:00

The Elemental Mixology Fabrication Course is still open. Learn to make bitters, orgeat syrup, grenadine syrup, flavored brandy liqueurs and old-fashioned, lump sugar-rubbed sherbet from which to base traditional punches! Each item fabricated during the course will be split up for the students to take home! Go to www.elementalmixology.com and scroll down for the course dates - or click the "Elemental Mixology Courses in Los Angeles" link for the details.

EMDC Dates Set!

2011-04-12T12:12:00.001-07:00

New Elemental Mixology Drink-making Course dates have been set for late Spring! Go to www.elementalmixology.com and scroll down for the course dates - or click the "Elemental Mixology Courses in Los Angeles" link for the details.

The Gin Pepper Blossom

2011-04-01T13:37:00.001-07:00

Here is another blossom, over at my other blog:

http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com/2011/04/01/gin-pepper-blossom/

Enjoy!

The Plattsburgh Blossom

2011-03-31T15:02:00.000-07:00

There is a new drink by myself, the Plattsburgh Blossom, with the reason for the name given, and with punch and cocktail versions of the drink on my other blog at:

http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com/2011/03/31/the-plattsburgh-blossom/

Traditional Units of Measure Pertaining to Mixology

2011-03-10T08:09:00.000-08:00

After repeated requests from students, I have posted a new page on www.elementalmixology.com giving traditional units of measure pertaining to mixology. The page can be reached through the link entitled "Traditional Units of Measure Pertaining to Mixology."
- Andrew

Books on Drink: A History (with ratings)

2011-03-08T11:50:00.000-08:00

I am often asked about the books on drink that I read and recommend. So I finally put this together. It is by no means an encyclopedic listing of all books on drink, and the ratings reflect no one's opinions but my own.
- Andrew (the "Alchemist")

1820 – 1879: THE FOUNDATIONAL ERA
Books from this period usually group drinks by types with common discernable characteristics. In this period, the cocktail is but one clearly definable type of drink. Also, books from this period are faithful to the jigger (or wine-glass) as a unit of measure equaling two-fluid-ounces that is the basic portion of total liquor to be made into any type of mixed drink. Where books from this era give recipes for single-serving drinks containing multiple liquors, they will jigger them together into a total of two-fluid-ounces.
During the Foundational Era, the majority of drinks are based on primary spirits, such as brandy, whiskey and rum. But, gin is present and respected.
The Foundational Era begins with drinks already as-commonly sweetened by flavored syrups and liqueurs as they are by plain sugar or sugar syrup.

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
1827	Cook, Richard	Oxford Night Caps	3/5	5/5
1862	Thomas, Jerry	How to Mix Drinks	4/5	5/5
1869	Terrington. William	Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks	4/5	3/5
1871	Ricket, E. & Thomas, C.	The Gentleman’s Table Guide	4/5	3/5
1878	Engel, Leo	American & other Drinks	4/5	2/5

1880 – 1908: THE GOLDEN AGE – the rise of gin and vermouth
Books from this period continue the practice of presenting drinks by types, and with the clear sense that cocktails are but one type of drink. They also remain faithful to the jigger as a unit of measure equaling two-fluid-ounces that is the total portion of liquor in mixed drinks.
It is during the Golden Age that gin begins to be more popular than other spirits. Also during this era, cocktails (real ones) that are sweetened by vermouth (in addition to – or instead of – sugar, syrups or liqueurs) become common.

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
1884	Byron, O.H.	The Modern Bartender’s Guide	4/5	5/5
1887	Dick & Fitzgerald	Jerry Thomas’ Bar-tenders Guide	4/5	5/5
1888	Johnson, Harry	New and Improved Bartender’s Manual	4/5	5/5
1891	Boothby, William	American Bar-tender	4/5	5/5
1892	Schmidt, William	The Flowing Bowl	3/5	4/5
1895	Kappeler, George	Modern American Drinks	5/5	5/5
1895	The above is one of the books that vie for consideration as the best all-around pre-prohibition drinks book.
1903	Daly, Tim	Daly’s Bartender’s Encyclopedia	4/5	4/5
1904	Stuart, Thomas	Stuart’s Fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them	4/5	4/5
1904	The above is the same as the 1896 edition, but with a 1904 addendum of “New and up-to-date Drinks”
1908	Boothby, William	The World’s Drinks and How to Mix Them	5/5	5/5
1908	The above is one of the books that vie for consideration as the best all-around pre-prohibition drinks book.

1909 – 1919: THE LATE PRE-PROHIBITION ERA – the breaking of the cocktail
Books from this period often group drinks alphabetically, usually mis-calling many other types of drinks “cocktails” – as long as they are served ‘up.’ This formless, alphabetical approach will eventually contribute to the idea that knowing drink names is as important as knowing their natures.
During the Late Pre-Prohibition Era, gin has completed its rise and gin-based drinks become the norm. Also, it was during this period that the first corruption of the Martini Cocktail gathered steam - with drinks such as the Good Times Cocktail and Hoffman House Cocktail being called "Martinis" or "Dry Martinis"

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
1910	Grohusko, Jack	Jack’s Manual on the Vintage and Production, Care and Handling of Wines, Liquors, etc.	3/5	4/5
1914	Straub, Jacques	Drinks	3/5	4/5
1917	Bullock, Tom	The Ideal Bartender	2/5	3/5
1917	Ensslin, Hugo	Recipes for Mixed Drinks	3/5	4/5
1935	Crockett, Albert	The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book	4/5	5/5
1935	The above is listed here for its transmission of the recipes compiled in the Waldorf Hotel Bar from 1897 through 1919.

1920 – 1934: THE PROHIBIITON ERA – the complete debasement of the cocktail
The Prohibition Era exhibits the supremacy of the image of the so-called “cocktail” over the elemental reality of the traditional type of drink by the same name. For the first time, many books from this period actually call themselves “cocktail” books. These books tend to force all new drinks into cocktail goblets. This practice will eventually contribute to the breaking of the jigger.
The Prohibition Era continues the supremacy of gin, and actually expands upon it.

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
1922	MacElhone, Harry	Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails	3/5	4/5
1922	Vermeire, Robert	Cocktails: How to Mix Them	3/5	4/5
1926	John Hamilton Publishers, Limited	The Cocktail Book	3/5	3/5
1930	Craddock, Harry	The Savoy Cocktail Book	3/5	5/5
1932	Sloppy Joe’s Bar (Cuba)	Sloppy Joe’s Cocktails Manual	3/5	4/5
1934	Boothby’s World Drinks Company	Boothby’s World Drinks and How to Mix Them	2/5	5/5

1935 – 1949: THE REPEAL ERA – the breaking of the jigger
Books from this period expand upon the shortcomings of the earlier post-Golden Age eras by divorcing their recipes from the jigger as the basic two-fluid-ounce portion of total liquor in mixed drinks. This is probably a consequence of the image-driven desire to fit drinks of various types into the iconic cocktail goblet.
It is noteworthy that during the Repeal Era, mixology begins to notice vodka.

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
1935	Cotton, Leo	Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide	3/5	4/5
1935	Crockett, Albert	The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book	4/5	5/5
1935	The above is listed here for the drinks added by Crockett at the time of publication. See the earlier listing of this book.
1939	Baker, Charles	The Gentleman’s Companion	3/5	4/5
1939	The above has been re-issued as “Jigger, Beaker, & Glass: Drinking Around the World.”
1946	Beebe, Lucius	The Stork Club Bar Book	3/5	3/5
1946	Bergeron, Victor (“Trader Vic”)	Trader Vic’s Book of Food & Drink	3/5	3/5
1947	Bergeron, Victor (“Trader Vic”)	Bartender’s Guide	3/5	4/5
1948	Embury, David	The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks	3/5	5/5

1950 – 1969: THE BLANK ERA – the rise of vodka
Not many drinks books seem to have been published during this era – hence its name. Also appropriate to the name is the fact that during the Blank Era, vodka-based drinks become common, and nearly every bar begins to stock vodka.
It is noteworthy that during the Blank Era, tiki drinks enjoyed their greatest popularity. Tiki drinks do not form a genre, elementally-speaking – most of them are punches of one sub-genre or another. The unifying characteristic of tiki drinks is that they are all meant to be evocative of tropical exoticism.

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
1955	Cotton, Leo	Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide	3/5	4/5
1960	Cotton, Leo	Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide	3/5	4/5
1968	Cotton, Leo	Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide	3/5	4/5

1970 – 1999: THE DRINKS NADIR ERA – the supremacy of vodka
Books from this period expand upon the shortcomings of the earlier post-Golden Age eras by becoming completely devoid of any sense of basic portions of total liquor.
Many books from the Drinks Nadir Era contain the words “complete” or “bible” in their titles – the suggestion being that the purchase of one book (and the reference to – or memorization of – the formless recipes found therein) can substitute for mixological knowledge.
It is during the Drinks Nadir Era that the word “cocktail” (in its de-based, image-driven meaning) is partially abandoned in favor of the word “Martini” – which likewise becomes largely de-based.
During the Drinks Nadir Era, pre-mixes and artificial mixers become common. Also, it is during this era that vodka-based drinks become the norm.

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
1977	Jones, Stan	Jones’ Complete Barguide	3/5	5/5
1984	Cotton, Leo	Mister Boston Official Bartender’s Guide	3/5	4/5
1990	Feller, Robyn	The Complete Bartender	1/5	3/5
1993	Sennett, Bob	Complete World Bartender	2/5	3/5
1995	Schumann, Charles	American Bar	3/5	4/5
1999	Regan, Gary	The Bartender’s Bible	3/5	4/5

2000 – ????: THE DRINKS RENAISSANCE ERA – bar-lore and echoes of the Prohibition Era
Books (and bars) in this period tend to restore freshness to the sour element. This restoration should not have been required to begin with, and it is perhaps a mistake to make much fuss over the return to fresh juices. It’s a bit like bragging about having recently stopped cheating on a significant other.
The Drinks Renaissance Era sees the expansion of the use of the aromatic element, especially in the form of additive bitters, spices and aromatic produce.
A common theme in this era and its drink books is that of a return to “correct” mixology and “proper cocktails.” Unfortunately, this does not include the return to the two-fluid-ounce jigger as the total portion of liquor in drinks – and many drinks are still served with too-much or too-little alcohol. The ridiculously-oversized cocktail goblet is still the home of many non-cocktails. There is a clear echo of the Prohibition Era in the fervent re-invigoration of the practice of mis-calling drinks “cocktails” to suggest their quality. The word “cocktail” returns to the titles of books from this period more than in any other since the Prohibition Era. Earlier books are widely reprinted during this era, but usually with a subtitle or blurb about them being “cocktail” books.
The word “mixology” is so loosely applied during the Drinks Renaissance Era that many actual mixologists abandon the word itself.
During this era, many bar professionals attempt to roll-back the use of the word “Matini” in its baseless, image-driven sense – even though they largely fail to do the same for the word “cocktail.”
It is probably a result of a generalized retrograde view that the Drinks Renaissance Era exhibits the ascendancy of bar-lore – the tales associated with the creation of individual historic drinks. Bar-lore usually focuses on personalities and happenstance rather than mixological principles and evolution. Unfortunately, bar-lore is often mistaken for mixology.
Likewise retrograde in view is the re-embrace of gin – a clear and deliberate echo of the supremacy of gin during the Prohibition Era.
Another echo of the Prohibition Era found in the Drinks Renaissance Era is the commercial success of the so-called ‘speakeasy’ type bar.

year	author	title	mixology rating	extant drinks study rating
2002	DeGroff, Dale	The Craft of the Cocktail	3/5	3/5
2002	Poister, John	New American Bartender’s Guide	3/5	4/5
2003	Regan, Gary	The Joy of Mixology	3/5	4/5
2005	Paragon Publishing	1001 Cocktails	3/5	4/5
2006	Difford, Simon	Cocktails #6	3/5	5/5
2006	Barton Incorporated	Mister Boston Platinum Edition	3/5	4/5
2008	Albert, Bridget & Barranco, Mary	Market Fresh Mixology: Cocktails for Every Season	4/5	3/5
2008	DeGroff, Dale	The Essential Cocktail	3/5	3/5
2008	Difford, Simon	Cocktails #7	3/5	5/5
2009	Difford, Simon	Cocktails #8	3/5	5/5
2009	Difford, Simon	Difford’s Encyclopedia of Cocktails {Cocktails #8}	3/5	5/5
2010	Abou-Ganim, Tony & Batali, Mario & Faulkner, Elizabeth	The Modern Mixologist: Contemporary Classic Cocktails	4/5	3/5
2010	Difford, Simon	Cocktails #9	3/5	5/5
2010	Kosmas, Jason & Zaric, Dushan	Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails Reimagined	4/5	3/5

OLD-FASHIONED SHERBET AND TRADITIONAL, FIVE-ELEMENT PUNCH

2011-03-08T11:46:00.000-08:00

OLD-FASHIONED SHERBET AND TRADITIONAL, FIVE-ELEMENT PUNCH
by Andrew “the Alchemist”

Sherbet is now mainly thought of in its frozen version, but unfrozen old-fashioned sherbet was once commonly used to make superior punches. Contrary to what has been recently suggested, making sherbet the old-fashioned way by rubbing lump sugar against lemons is perfectly possible. It is also culinarily preferable to muddling strips of lemon peel into granulated sugar – which fails to obtain deeply yellow sherbet sugar, and invariably adds bitterness from the white pith. La Perruche™ and Comptoir du Sud™ are recommended brands of old-fashioned lump sugar that is solid enough for old-fashioned lemon-rubbing.

The first stage of making old-fashioned sherbet yields sherbet sugar, or oleo-saccharum. Sherbet sugar contains the aromatic and sweet elements.

The second stage of making old-fashioned sherbet yields rump sherbet. Rump sherbet contains the aromatic, sour and sweet elements.

The third stage yields fully-fledged, old-fashioned sherbet. Old-fashioned sherbet contains the aromatic, sour, sweet and weak elements.

To make a traditional, five-element punch from old-fashioned sherbet, the strong element is added to it.
Following the instructions below will produce old-fashioned sherbet, the amount of which will be appropriate for making a traditional, five-element punch that will yield 12 servings of 6 fluid-ounces {180 milliliters} each, in the proportions of 2:1:4:3. That is two parts of sour, one part of sweet, four parts of strong, and three parts of weak. These proportions allow nicely for the additional amount of the weak element that will be incidentally added in the form of ice-meltage that will occur as the punch sits. When the punch is served, each 6 fluid-ounce {180 milliliter} serving will contain almost exactly the traditional jigger {2 fluid-ounces | 60 milliliters} of liquor.

To make sherbet sugar in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch:
-          begin with room-temperature lemons
-          find the average juice yield per type and size of the lemons on hand
-          the average yield is usually between 1 fluid-ounce {30 milliliters} and 1-1/2 fluid-ounces {45 milliliters}
-          select enough of the lemons to yield 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} of juice, with a little extra for good measure
-          soak the lemons in pure water that is not too cold for 15 minutes
-          use paper towels to dab the lemons dry, without rubbing or using much force
-          thoroughly wash, rinse and dry hands
-          rub old-fashioned lump sugar forcefully against the exterior {zest} of the lemons
-          do this over a large, glass measuring cup with a capacity of 2 cups or more
-          when the rubbed side of the sugar lump appears deeply yellow, turn it and continue to rub
-          rotate each lemon as needed to obtain the essential oil from the entire zest
-          as each lump of sugar becomes fully saturated, drop it into the measuring cup
-          as each lemon is rubbed of all of its available essential zest oil, reserve it and take up another intact lemon
-          stop when the amount of saturated sugar lumps reaches a generous 3/4 cup {6 fluid-ounces | 180 milliliters}
-          when taking the above measurement, don’t mind the dead space between lumps
-          the stopping point for rubbing sugar should roughly coincide with all the selected lemons having been rubbed
-          use a muddler to crush the saturated sugar lumps
-          add granulated sugar to bring the total sugar amount to 3/4 cup {6 fluid-ounces | 180 milliliters} and reserve
-          press the juice from the rubbed lemons until 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} juice is obtained and reserve it
-          while pressing the juice, collect and reserve the pips {seeds} from the pressing tool, and the pressed lemon hulls
-          reserve the pressed juice
-          place the collected pips and reserved sugar preparation together in a mixing bowl
-          use the muddler to abrase the pips with the sugar, breaking the mucilage and allowing its flavor into the sugar
-          it is not desirable to break or crush the pips any more than occurs incidentally
At this point, the preparation becomes sherbet sugar, or oleo-saccharum. If not going on, the pips should be carefully picked out. If going on to make rump sherbet, it is not necessary to pick out the pips, as they will be strained out.

To continue and make rump sherbet in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch:
-          begin with the above preparation of sherbet sugar {the pips need not have been picked out}
-          add the 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} of lemon juice that was reserved from above
-          used the muddler to continue crushing any lump sugar that may be left, and to free any impacted sherbet sugar from it
-          stir very well, until all of the sherbet sugar is dissolved into the lemon juice
-          pour through a fine strainer into another mixing bowl
-          If any appreciable amount of un-dissolved sugar is seen while pouring, stop pouring and stir more, before resuming straining
At this point, the preparation becomes rump sherbet. The yield at this point should be almost exactly 2 cups.
If used within 24 hours, rump sherbet is excellent from which to make such variants of punch as swizzles, fixes, sours, fizzes and Collinses with - as long as not too much of the jigger is taken up by liqueur. That would probably make the drink too sweet. For making any of these individual punches, combine 1-1/3 fluid-ounces {40 milliliters} of the above preparation of rump sherbet to the traditional jigger {2 fluid-ounces | 60 milliliters} of total liquor. This amount of rump sherbet contains almost exactly 1 fluid-ounce {30 milliliters} of lemon juice and 1 level-tablespoon {15 milliliters} of sugar. This results in an individual drink with the proportions of 2 parts of sour, 1 part of sweet, and 4 parts of strong {and incidental method-related dilution} – which is traditional, and a good starting point - though it may be slightly too-sour for some tastes.
It can be noted here that proportions should always be considered with dry sugar amounts for familiarity with the amount of sweetness involved. This is why I advocate the use of 1:1 sugar syrup when sugar syrup is to be used. Made with equal parts (by volume) of sugar and water, converting from any amount of dry sugar can be easily accomplished by multiplying the dry sugar amount 1-1/2 times. For example, 3/4 fluid-ounce {22.5 milliliters} of 1:1 sugar syrup contains almost exactly 1 level tablespoon {15 milliliters} of sugar {because 15 x 1.5 = 22.5}.

To continue and make old-fashioned sherbet in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch in the 2:1:4:3 proportions:
-          begin with the above preparation of rump sherbet
-          add 2-1/4 cups {18 fluid-ounces | 540 milliliters} of pure water
-          stir until evenly mixed
At this point, the preparation becomes old-fashioned sherbet.

To continue and make a 12-serving batch of punch in the 2:1:4:3 proportions:
-          begin with the above preparation of old-fashioned sherbet
-          pour the old-fashioned sherbet into an 8 quart punch bowl
-          add 3 cups {24 fluid-ounces | 720 milliliters} of liquor(s) {example: one 750 milliliter bottle minus 1 fluid-ounce – or just pour in the whole bottle}
-          stir until evenly mixed
-          taste the punch
-          if desired, add sweetness by stirring in more granulated sugar {if part of the 3 cups of liquor contains liqueur, this should not be necessary}
-          if desired, add more aromatic elements {examples: additive bitters, or spices tied into a cheesecloth bundle or placed into a commercially-available spice bag}
-          stir, cover and reserve for at least 2 hours to let the flavors marry
-          if a spice bundle or bag was added, remove it now
-          add as much of the largest-sized ice as will fit
-          garnish with garniture of choice {examples: citrus wheels or seasonal berries}
-          place the punch in an inviting location, with a ladle
-          in a nearby place, arrange clean punch cups of a size that will easily hold a 6 fluid-ounce portion of the punch
Enjoy!

P.S. Making sherbet sugar, rump sherbet and fully-fledged old-fashioned sherbet is an important part of the Elemental Mixology Fabrication Course {EMFC} that I teach in the Los Angeles area. Check it out at www.elementalmixology.com for course dates when you can be taught in a hands-on manner to make your own old-fashioned sherbet by a mixologist with a formal culinary background {me!}.
- Andrew

THE QUEST FOR HIGH-QUALITY FLAVORED BRANDY LIQUEURS

2011-02-04T11:09:00.000-08:00

THE QUEST FOR HIGH-QUALITY FLAVORED BRANDY LIQUEURS

{with formulae for Apricot-flavored Brandy Liqueur, Blackberry-flavored Brandy Liqueur, Cherry-flavored Brandy Liqueur, and Peach-flavored Brandy Liqueur}

by Andrew “the Alchemist”

We have all seen recipes that call for cherry-flavored brandy liqueur and others that simply do not exist in good quality bottlings. There are notable exceptions. Orange-flavored brandy liqueur is available in quite a few good bottlings.

I refuse to purchase or use any flavored brandy liqueur that is not made from good ingredients. For this type of liqueur, I want the flavor to come from natural ingredients that are compounded with aged brandywine - instead of imitation flavorings added to un-aged grape spirits.

I would expect that, in order for the brandy flavor to be present and married with the added flavor, the finished flavored brandy liqueur should have a minimal alcohol content of 60° {30% alcohol-by-volume}. You may notice that the orange-flavored brandy liqueurs like Gran Gala and Grand Marnier are sold at 80°, and that you can actually taste the marriage of orange peel and aged brandy. If they were sold at below 60°, you would probably begin to lose the brandy flavor.

So, with those standards in mind, it is sadly the case that there are no good-quality bottlings of apricot-flavored brandy liqueur, blackberry-flavored brandy liqueur, cherry-flavored brandy liqueur, or peach-flavored brandy liqueur – even though many drink recipes call for them.

Partially-acceptable solutions are employed by bartenders to overcome this shortcoming of the liquor industry, but they are not without drawbacks.

For example, the Blood & Sand is often made with Heering cherry liqueur in place of the originally-specified cherry-flavored brandy liqueur. Heering is a cherry ratafia liqueur. Ratafia liqueurs are compounded by macerating the flavoring material, which usually includes something aromatic, in spirits. The spirit used in a ratafia liqueur is not of as much consequence as for some other types, because the aromatic element in the maceration can overcome the flavor of the spirit, and because ratafia liqueurs are often sold at proofs too low for the flavor of the spirit used in the maceration to be an equal partner in the flavor of the finished product. Heering cherry liqueur is a ratafia of cherries (and their aromatic pits) in neutral spirits with a proprietary blend of other aromatic substances. When using Heering in place of cherry-flavored brandy liqueur in the Blood & Sand, it adds significantly to the aromatic nature of a drink that was originally sufficiently aromatized mostly by the vermouth that is also in it – to the point that an unintended bitterness can become detectable. That is to say nothing of the fact that Heering fails to contribute any of the brandy flavor that was in the original drink.

So, what does the culinarily-driven mixologist do? The answer is simple. Compound your own high-quality flavored brandy liqueurs. The simple recipes below use an affordable Cognac brandy as the base, and liqueurs from France that are made with natural ingredients. The liqueurs selected are mostly crème liqueurs, which are compounded from neutral spirits that will not complicate the flavor of the brandy. Marie Brizard Apry contains Cognac brandy, but in the new version of the product, the proof is too low for the proper brandy flavor to be present. Also, using Apry in layered drinks from the 1800’s doesn't work properly, since Apry is obviously higher in sugar and lower in proof than the apricot-flavored brandy liqueurs of the good, old days – Apry is too heavy to layer in the original order.

These are formulae that I use when teaching my fabrication course. They will produce high-quality flavored brandy liqueurs at 60° {30% alcohol-by-volume}, or slightly higher. The brandy flavor will be evident. They all use liqueurs that are sweet enough that, when mixed with the brandy, the appropriate, medium-level of sweetness for a flavored brandy liqueur will be achieved.

Apricot-flavored Brandy Liqueur

1 part Salignac V.S. Cognac Brandy {80°/40% alcohol-by-volume}

1 part Marie Brizard Apry {41°/20.5% alcohol-by-volume – older bottles are 60°}

Stir well (without ice, obviously), but not vigorously enough to appreciably aerate

Pour into a clean, dry bottle and seal with a cap or cork

Yield: good-quality Apricot-flavored Brandy Liqueur

{60.5°/30.25% alcohol-by-volume}

Blackberry-flavored Brandy Liqueur

5 parts Salignac V.S. Cognac Brandy {80°/40% alcohol-by-volume}

4 parts Edmond Briottet Crème de Mûre Liqueur {36°/18% alcohol-by-volume}

Stir well (without ice, obviously), but not vigorously enough to appreciably aerate

Pour into a clean, dry bottle and seal with a cap or cork

Yield: good-quality Blackberry-flavored Brandy Liqueur

{60.4°/30.2% alcohol-by-volume}

Cherry-flavored Brandy Liqueur

1 part Salignac V.S. Cognac Brandy {80°/40% alcohol-by-volume}

1 part G.E. Massenez Crème de Griotte Liqueur {40°/20% alcohol-by-volume}

Stir well (without ice, obviously), but not vigorously enough to appreciably aerate

Pour into a clean, dry bottle and seal with a cap or cork

Yield: good-quality Cherry-flavored Brandy Liqueur

{60°/30% alcohol-by-volume}

Peach-flavored Brandy Liqueur

5 parts Salignac V.S. Cognac Brandy {80°/40% alcohol-by-volume}

4 parts Edmond Briottet Crème de Pêche de Vigne Liqueur {36°/18% alcohol-by-volume}

Stir well (without ice, obviously), but not vigorously enough to appreciably aerate

Pour into a clean, dry bottle and seal with a cap or cork

Yield: good-quality Peach-flavored Brandy Liqueur

{60.4°/30.2% alcohol-by-volume}

Enjoy!

A Brief Study of the Negroni, or rather, the Camparinette Cocktail

2011-01-20T07:31:00.000-08:00

A Brief Study of the Negroni, or rather, the Camparinette Cocktail

by Andrew “the Alchemist”

In 1950, Horace Sutton published his book, "Footloose in Italy." In that book he suggests a couple of drinks he found to be native to Italy – the Negroni and the Cardinale. The Negroni, he wrote, is composed of “vermouth, campari [sic], seltzer and gin.” The Cardinale, he describes as being, “a Martini with campari [sic] which turns it red.” Sutton is not the only early source that presents the Negroni as being a cooler/highball. It appears to be a close relative to the Americano Highball of the 1920’s or 1930’s. Sutton’s book is evidence that what is called the Negroni today was known in Italy as the Cardinale during the same period.

But was the Cardinale truly native to Italy? In the American book published in 1934 by Boothby’s World Drinks Company and attributed to William Boothby (even though he had died in 1930), there is a drink called the Camparinette. The Camparinette Cocktail is composed of gin, sweet vermouth and Campari. It is diluted with method ice and strained into a glass cocktail goblet. The garniture is a twist of lemon. That should seem familiar to all drink enthusiasts, even if the name does not.

So, not only is the drink that is now commonly called the Negroni the same drink that the Italians and Sutton called the Cardinale in 1950 – it already existed in an American book with its own name in 1934. Since Campari is a grand bitters, the Camparinette is elementally that most American type of drink – a bittered sling, otherwise known as a cocktail.

What does this all mean for the bar-lore of an Italian count? If any one of the men proposed as the count Negroni in question was involved with creating any drink, it surely was not the more popular and better drink that people now errantly call after his name. That creature is of an elementally American species and breeding – and its home range is where its recipe was first documented – as the Camparinette Cocktail.
But, let's not be stingy! Italian restaurants have long been serving a salad from Mexico, the César Salad, as if it were Italian. Let them pretend the Camparinette is Italian, too - even if they have to call it by the name of one of their own abandoned drinks, the Negroni.

Sangaree vs. Sangris, Sangria, and American Sangarees

2011-01-19T07:26:00.000-08:00

Sangaree vs. Sangris, Sangria and American Sangarees

by Andrew "the Alchemist"

The original Sangaree (or Sangre or Sangoree) was a punch documented in London as far back as 1736. Its normal composition was Madeira wine with lime juice, sugar, water and nutmeg. It’s possible that its originator, Mr. Gordon (who had a punch shop in the Strand in London), sold it as being healthy for the blood. Madeira wine is a fortified wine from the Portuguese island of Madeira. Mr. Gordon called his punch ‘Sangre’ from the Portuguese for ‘blood.’ ‘Sangaree’ is probably a flourish on a poorly-pronounced Anglicization of ‘sangre.’

Sangaree became very popular in the hot climes of the British Caribbean, and it most-likely spread from there to the French-speaking Caribbean as ‘Sangris.’ In the 1800’s, a writer in France postulated that the drink had a French origin since it seemed obvious to him that ‘Sangris’ came from ‘sang gris,’ which means ‘gray blood’ in French.

From either the French-speaking or English-speaking Caribbean, the drink spread to the Spanish-speaking world and became known there as ‘Sangria,’ where it is based on Spanish wine. By the 1900’s, Sangria was assumed to have a Spanish origin in much the same type of thinking that previously had it thought to be originally French.

In the U.S.A., Sangaree lost its sour element and dropped from punch to sling (the most uniquely American type of mixed drink). American Sangarees did retain the use of fortified wines, and by the 1800’s any sling containing fortified wine would be called a ‘Sangaree’ in the U.S.A.

Fun!

2011-01-15T03:33:00.001-08:00

http://www.elementalmixology.com/elementalmixology2/emlc-1

New Course & Event Dates

2011-01-15T03:14:00.000-08:00

New Course & Event Dates are set! Check them out at:
www.elementalmixology.com

Elemental Mixology Course

2010-12-19T13:15:00.000-08:00

Please check the other blog:
http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com/2010/12/19/elemental-mixology-course-2/
- or -
http://www.elementalmixology.com
For current course availability.

Main Blog

2010-12-14T21:05:00.000-08:00

Hello!
Please see my main blog at:
http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com/

The Kangaroo - or not

2010-11-17T06:33:00.000-08:00

In vogue in some circles currently, is the moniker of Kangaroo for a drink of vodka, modified by dry vermouth and method dilution. The supporting assumption is sometimes given that such was the original name for this drink. It seems to have appeared in the 1950’s. Unfortunately, the drink had already been published under the vulgar and un-inspired name of the 'Vodka Martini' in the Stork Club Bar Book by Lucius Beebe in 1946. "Vodka Martini" seems to have been in use since about 1940.

So, "Kangaroo" is not the original name for this drink - but it still may be advantageous to adopt it as a unique, differentiating moniker. Of course, the public at large will probably not now adopt the Kangaroo name. They had a chance to when it was presented to them the first time in the 1950's. But they kept right on saying "vodka Martini" - as they had been since the 1940's.

It should be noted that neither the common 'gin Martini' nor 'vodka Martini' has much to do with the original Martini Cocktail. The so-called 'gin Martini' with an olive was presented as the 'Gibson' by Boothby in 1908. Yes - that's an olive - not an onion. More important to the Gibson than the garniture was its lack of bitters - as explicitly stated by Boothby. The problem with trying to force the correct use of the Gibson and Kangaroo names is that the word "Martini" has become too seductive (with its air of faux-sophistication) to be have precise meaning among the masses - and the bars that want their money.

But, in the cloistered world of passionate mixology that is grounded in pre-prohibition tradition and not fettered by the ignorance of the customers (or the industry), we may use terms in their unique, original meaning all we want. In fact, we should do so as much as possible.

Folk-mixology and the Gibson

2010-10-13T16:29:00.001-07:00

Folk-mixology and the Gibson

by Andrew “the Alchemist”

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Folk-etymology is the set of popular (and often incorrect) assumptions or beliefs about the origin of specific words. The ancient Greeks have left us their musings of plausible, and often-entertaining, explanations of the origins of some of the words in their language. Modern linguistic science has proven many of those accounts incorrect. Where ancient Greek folk-etymology often went wrong was to begin with the then-current sense of a word and project it backwards.

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I would say that folk-mixology is the set of popular (and often incorrect) beliefs about the origin of specific drinks and their names. Where folk-mixology often goes wrong is to begin with the current idea of a drink and project it backwards. I am often surprised at how difficult it can be to read the recipe for a seemingly-familiar drink in an old bartending book without projecting my current concepts onto it.

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Take the Gibson, for example. Most bar professionals will have heard that it is a “Martini with an onion.” Here we dive headfirst into folk-mixology. The earliest recipe for the Gibson garnishes the drink with nothing or, optionally, an olive. Other early Gibsons are garnished with citrus twists. It took decades to get the onion into the drink. It is certain that the Gibson was not created as a 'Martini' with an onion.

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Once the reader believes that the onion is central to the Gibson’s identity, old recipes that do not fit this bit of folk-mixology can be almost-subconsciously glossed over. Many of us have the bad habit of reading just for ingredients and not paying close attention to garniture or proportion or other information.

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As an exercise let us study the origins of this drink to more clearly determine what the original irreducible identity of the Gibson really is.

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The earliest Gibson recipe in a major source that I could find is in the 1908 edition of William Boothby’s book The World’s Drinks. In it, he lists the “Gibson Cocktail” (sic) with his own source line, “á la Martin Raggett.” He then gives the following instructions:

Into a small mixing-glass place some cracked ice, half a jigger of French vermouth and half a jigger of dry English gin; stir thoroughly until cold, strain into a cocktail glass and serve.

Note.-No bitters should ever be used in making this drink, but an olive is sometimes used.

(In the interest of clarity, it should be known that “French vermouth” always means dry vermouth and that the traditional American, pre-prohibition jigger is an amount of two fluid-ounces. The pre-prohibition standard was to make mixed drinks with all liquor(s) in it totaling two fluid-ounces.)

Notice that there is no onion in the 1908 Gibson.

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One can never be sure that any given drinks writer of yore was not somehow out of step with the rest of the bartending community, or that a simple error was not made in the writing or printing of a book. Therefore, a survey of other old sources is called for.

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The chronologically-next Gibson recipe that I have access to is found in Jacques Straub’s 1914 book entitled Drinks. The edition I have is the currently-available reprint of the 1948 reprint. Straub presents the “Gibson Cocktail” (sic) as being:

½ jigger French vermouth

½ jigger dry gin

Stir, strain and serve.

Again, notice that no onion is indicated.

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Knowing that it is possible that one writer used the other as a source, further survey is called for.

The chronologically-next Gibson recipe I found was from the pre-prohibition material in the Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book. This book was written by Albert Crockett and published in 1935. The bulk of the recipes, however, came from the bar book compiled and used in the bar of the Waldorf-Astoria hotel before prohibition. Crockett suggests that they were “pre-war,” and would then be earlier than entry of the United States into the First World War in 1917.

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Crockett states that he re-arranged the drinks “alphabetically, and in two general classes.” I suspect that the pre-prohibition bartenders at the hotel had arranged the drinks by type. I am saddened that Crockett’s post-prohibition, alphabetical approach has destroyed some precious evidence of how pre-prohibition drinks were actually thought of by their practitioners. Luckily, we have other more intact sources.

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There is no evidence that Crockett significantly altered the recipes themselves. We can assume that, in the bar of the Waldorf-Astoria hotel, the Gibson was:

One-half French Vermouth

One-half Dry Tom Gin (Stir)

Squeeze Lemon Peel on top

I believe that this recipe was jotted down rather early, since the bartender seems to have still thought of old tom gin as the default gin. Notice that he calls the dry version “dry tom gin,” instead of just “gin” or “dry gin” or “London dry gin.” But, more importantly, notice the lack of an onion.

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The very next drink in the Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book (as we have it) is the “Gibson No. 2.” It is given as:

One-third French Vermouth

Two-thirds Plymouth Gin

Orange Peel on top

This recipe is probably later that the previous one, since it is “number two,” is made with Plymouth dry gin and has twice as much gin as vermouth. It would still have been jiggered to two-fluid-ounces, with one-and-one-third fluid-ounces of the gin and two-thirds of a fluid-ounce of the vermouth.

Notice that even in the “number two,” there is no onion.

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The next major source I found the Gibson in was the Harry Craddock’s The Savoy Cocktail Book (sic) from 1930:

½ French Vermouth

½ Gin

Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.

Squeeze lemon peel on top.

Again, we have no onion.

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Also from 1930, is the earliest source I could find that garnishes the drink with an onion. In that year "Jimmy of Ciros" wrote that the Gibson was "the same as a Martini Cocktail but is served with a small white onion." It took decades for the Gibson to be exclusively described as the drink thought of today. Even after that, other sources continued to publish Gibson recipes garnished with citrus twists.

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So, that leaves us with the question of what originally made the Gibson unique. If you read the old books, you will find dozens and dozens of drinks with their own unique names that many people today would just call a “gin Martini.” The fact is that the Martini Cocktail was just one of them. It was made of equal parts tom gin and sweet vermouth with additive bitters (in 1891 Boothby indicated Angostura aromatic, in 1895 Kappeler indicated orange, and in 1908 Boothby had switched to orange) and garnished with a twist of lemon peel.

--------------------

But back to the Gibson – what did make it unique? Boothby’s might be the earliest extant recipe for any drink calling for dry gin, dry vermouth, dilution and no bitters that is garnished with an olive. If you remember Boothby’s recipe for it, he wrote, “No bitters should ever be used in making this drink…”

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I think it is fair to assume that many pre-prohibition drink recipes that seem to almost be cocktails, except that they are lacking bitters, may have been commonly made with bitters anyway. I direct your attention to the drink called the “Thanksgiving” in the pre-prohibition Waldorf-Astoria material. The recipe states:

No Bitters

One-half Italian Vermouth

One-half Tom Gin

Piece of Orange Peel

This recipe suggests that the bartenders needed to be stopped from putting bitters in the drink. Even though the Waldorf-Astoria material does not seem to have explicitly forbidden adding bitters to the Gibson, Boothby already had in 1908.

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Of all the drinks that seem to be cocktails from pre-prohibition sources, the only ones that I am aware of for which there is explicit instruction to omit bitters are the Thanksgiving, Narragansett, and the Gibson.

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In addition to Boothby’s explicit omission, no recipe from any source adds bitters to the Gibson. The early sources do not agree on the garniture. Boothby indicated an olive, while most of the other early sources that came after him chose lemon peel.

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At around the same time that Boothby published the recipe for the Gibson, literature indicates that people had begun to ask for a ‘dry Martini,’ which would contain dry gin and dry vermouth (instead of the sweeter versions of each that are contained in the original Martini Cocktail). Even though unique names were in use for such a drink (Dewey Cocktail with lemon twist - Good Times Cocktail with olive), the ‘Martini’ name stuck to any cocktail of gin and vermouth. The name even stuck when the bitters were omitted, making it identical to the Gibson. At some point after the so-called ‘Martini’ became identical to the original Gibson, the two names came to be used only to indicate different garniture.

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But, for the first decades of its life, the lack of bitters seems to have been much more important to the irreducible identity of the Gibson than whatever it was garnished with. This we can be more sure of than its namesake. I can live with that. I would prefer to learn something about the inherent identity of a drink, while not knowing its namesake, than the other way-around.

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It could be said that the common, un-bittered, so-called 'Martini' with an olive is really just a 1908 Gibson (even though in drier proportions). Likewise could be said about the vodka version being a Vodka Gibson.

Pre-prohibition Drinks of the Week [No. 4]

2010-10-11T00:31:00.000-07:00

Pre-prohibition Drinks of the Week [No. 4]

By Andrew “the Alchemist”

Sunday, October 10, 2010

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It’s Sunday, and time for another edition of the Pre-prohibition Drinks of the Week! I wanted to make this an all George Kappeler edition, but no drink fitting the succulent genre is found in his book. That genre seems to have emerged just before prohibition.

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Pre-prohibition Ensemble of the Week:

BRANDY CHAMPARELLE (á la Kappeler)

Vessel: 2 fl-oz. stemmed cordial goblet

Build in separate layers in the vessel:

→ ¼ fl-oz. maraschino liqueur

→ ¼ fl-oz. premium traditional Curaçao liqueur (creole shrubb is the best modern analog)

→ ¼ fl-oz. yellow Chartreuse™ liqueur

→ ¼ fl-oz. brandy of choice (Cognac brandy is recommended)

Garnish with a few drops of Angostura™ aromatic additive bitters

Enjoy!

From: Modern American Drinks – by George Kappeler (1895)

Note: only the lack of dilution keeps this drink from being a bittered sling (a.k.a. cocktail).

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Pre-prohibition Sling of the Week:

DUNDORADO COCKTAIL

Vessel: 4½ fl-oz. glass cocktail goblet

Combine in a mixing glass:

→ 1 fl-oz. old tom gin

→ 1 fl-oz. premium sweet vermouth

→ 1 bsp. Calisaya™ grand bitters

→ method ice

Stir for just under two minutes to mix, chill and dilute

Strain into the vessel

Garnish by twisting a strip of lemon zest over the drink and then dropping it in

Enjoy!

From: Modern American Drinks – by George Kappeler (1895)

Note: Calisaya™ was used in American drinks before prohibition, but has not been available for a long time. It is now being made again in Oregon according to an original Italian formula from the 1800’s. It is only available in Oregon at the present time. It is fortunate that I was in Oregon recently.

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Pre-prohibition Posset of the Week:

BALTIMORE EGGNOG

Vessel: 10½ fl-oz. glass banquet goblet (chilled)

Combine in a mixing tin:

→ 1 fl-oz. verdelho Madeira wine

→ ½ fl-oz. brandy of choice (Cognac brandy is recommended)

→ ½ fl-oz. pot-still Jamaica rum (Smith & Cross™ is recommended)

→ 1 pinch. powdered cinnamon

→ 1 tbsp. superfine sugar

→ 1 whole ‘large’ egg {without the shell}

→ 1 fl-oz. heavy cream

→ plenty of method ice

Cover with half-tin and shake vigorously for at least fifteen seconds to mix, chill, dilute and aerate

Finely-strain into the vessel

Garnish with an freshly-grated nutmeg

Enjoy!

From: Modern American Drinks – by George Kappeler (1895)

Note: I have modified the recipe by using a specific amount of heavy cream instead of a vague amount of whole milk

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Pre-prohibition Punch of the Week:

KNICKERBOCKER SOUR

Vessel: 5½ fl-oz. glass sour goblet (chilled)

Combine in a mixing tin:

→ 1¾ fl-oz. pot-still Jamaica rum (Smith & Cross™ is recommended)

→ ¼ fl-oz. premium traditional Curaçao liqueur (creole shrubb is the best modern analog)

→ 1 fl-oz. freshly-pressed Eureka lemon juice

→ 1 dsp. superfine sugar

→ ¼ fl-oz. pineapple syrup

→ plenty of method ice

Cover with half-tin and shake vigorously for at least twenty seconds to mix, chill, dilute and aerate

Finely-strain into the vessel

Garnish with an authentic maraschino cherry on a skewer

Enjoy!

From: Modern American Drinks – by George Kappeler (1895)

Note: Kappeler calls this the Knickerbocker Punch, but since he serves it without ice and does not add any water or other fluid weak ingredient, I will call it a sour.

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Pre-prohibition Grog of the Week:

SOUTHERN COOLER

Vessel: 13½ fl-oz. tall glass tumbler

→ entire paring of Eureka lemon peel (artfully spiraled up entire tumbler)

Insert straw

→ 5 fl-oz. service ice (5 full-ounce cubes)

Build in the vessel:

→ 1 fl-oz. Bourbon whiskey

→ 1 fl-oz. pot-still Jamaica rum (Smith & Cross™ is recommended)

→ ¼ fl-oz. simple 1:1 sugar syrup

→ 6 fl-oz. plain soda

Enjoy!

From: Modern American Drinks – by George Kappeler (1895)

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Pre-prohibition Succulent of the Week:

ORANGE BLOSSOM (á la Waldorf-Astoria)

Vessel: 5 fl-oz. glass wine goblet (chilled)

Combine in a mixing tin:

→ 1 fl-oz. old tom gin

→ 1 fl-oz. premium sweet vermouth

→ 1 fl-oz. freshly-pressed orange juice (Valencia or navel)

→ plenty of method ice

Cover with half-tin and shake vigorously for at least twenty seconds to mix, chill, dilute and aerate

Finely-strain into the vessel

Garnish with a quarter-wheel slice of orange

Enjoy!

From: The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book – by Albert Stevens Crockett (1935)

{This drink is from the main layer of material in Crockett’s book, which he states came from the original recipe book in his possession that had been used in the hotel’s bar until it closed in 1919.}

Note: depending on how long before 1919 this recipe was added to the repertoire of the Waldorf-Astoria, this may be the oldest recipe for a drink named the ‘Orange Blossom’ that is based on gin and made succulent with orange juice.

A New Introduction to Elemental Mixology

2010-10-10T18:31:00.000-07:00

by Andrew "the Alchemist"

Elemental Mixology is my approach to mixed drinks. It is based upon understanding the elements present in any drink. This approach was taught to me during my formal culinary education and I have applied it to drinks.

From an elemental point of view, there are six elements and six types of mixed drinks. Each of the elemental genres has its own character and presents a different type of drinking experience. The character and palate of any drink is largely a function of the elements present in the drink, and their relationship and proportion to each other. Some understanding of the effects of various methods of drink creation is advantageous. For example, stirring or shaking ingredients with ice will add a significant amount of the weak element in the form of water melted from the ice.

I have used traditional, pre-prohibition terms as much as possible that match elemental forms.

Elemental Mixology is my own unique approach, and I do not claim that all should follow it. But, I do believe that Elemental Mixology happens to restore much of the old understanding of drinks by their natures. That is lost under the modern approach of looking up drinks alphabetically, memorizing ingredients in de-jiggered amounts, and then learning to repeat the folklore of each drink – which will undoubtedly be called a ‘cocktail,’ regardless of its actual culinary nature.

MIXOLOGICAL ELEMENTS

There are seven elements in Elemental Mixology.

I. AROMATIC – Spices, Herbs, Zest, Bitters, Perfumes (such as orange blossom water).

II. SOUR – Lemon Juice, Lime Juice, Cranberry Juice (when pure and unsweetened), Vinegar.

III. SWEET – Sugar, Simple Sugar Syrup, Honey, Maple Syrup, Grenadine (pomegranate syrup), Raspberry Syrup, other Flavored Syrups.

IV. STRONG – All alcoholic beverage products except bitters. Strong products that are sweet can also act as the sweet element in some drinks.

V. WEAK – Flat Water, Plain Soda, Fancy Soda, Brewed Coffee, Brewed Tea.

VI. SUCCULENT – Fruit or vegetable juice that is considered fit for drinking without needing sweetening. The succulent element can also act as the

weak element in some drinks.

VII. THICK – Milk, Cream, Whole Eggs, Egg White, Egg Yolk, Condensed Milk, Coconut Cream. Milk can also act as the weak element in some drinks.

PLAIN & FANCY DRINKS

Any drink can be said to be either plain or fancy. The word ‘fancy’ may obviously be used in a number of ways. Jerry Thomas, in 1862, seems to have thought of the word ‘fancy’ mostly in reference to added garniture or fancy presentation. In contrast, George Kappeler, in 1895, always presents the word ‘fancy’ in reference to a drink that is sweetened with an ingredient that also has flavor beyond that of plain sugar, such as a liqueur. Kappeler’s ‘plain’ versions are always only sweetened with sugar or sugar syrup, if at all. This is evident when one compares his Brandy Cocktail with his Fancy Brandy Cocktail. Whenever Thomas and Kappeler do not agree, I tend to favor Kappeler.

I. PLAIN

In Elemental Mixology, a drink is considered plain if it is unsweetened or sweetened only by plain sugar or unflavored sugar syrup.

II. FANCY

In Elemental Mixology, a drink is considered fancy if it is at least partially-sweetened by a nectar, flavored syrup, liqueur, fortified wine or aromatized wine. That is to say that fancy drinks are modified by an ingredient that is at least somewhat sweet and additionally-flavorful. Using Kappeler’s sense of the word ‘fancy,’ we can be even more precise by using the following distinctions:

Nectaredly-fancy – the drink shall be at least partially-sweetened by a modifying nectar (such as honey, maple syrup or agave nectar) or a modifying flavored syrup (such as grenadine, orgeat syrup or raspberry syrup).

Liqueuredly-fancy – the drink shall be at least partially-sweetened by a modifying liqueur.

Fortifiedly-fancy – the drink shall be at least partially-sweetened by a modifying fortified wine (such as Port wine, Sherry wine or Madeira wine).

Aromatizedly-fancy – the drink shall be at least partially-sweetened by a modifying aromatized wine (such as vermouth or quina).

Aqueously-fancy – the drink shall be at least partially-sweetened by a sweet, flavored, water-based beverage product, such as fancy soda (ie. cola-flavored soda or soft ginger ale).

These terms may seem a little verbally-clumsy to some, but there are no better or more-traditional terms that I know of to make these distinctions.

Drinks of any genre may be plain or fancy. The Rye Whiskey Cocktail is plain, while the Manhattan Cocktail could be described as an aromatizedly-fancy adaptation of it. Drinks may also be fancy in more than one way. For example, the Long Island Iced-tea is an aqueously-and-liqueuredly-fancy punch.

ELEMENTAL GENRES OF DRINKS

There is one genre for un-mixed drinks and six for mixed drinks.

THOROUGHBREDS – all drinks of unmixed alcoholic beverage products.

MIXED DRINKS:

I. ENSEMBLES

Standard and Irreducible Elements: Strong + Strong

Key Element: Strong

Ensembles are made by modifying alcoholic products only with other alcoholic products. They are sometimes garnished and occasionally sweetened, but never diluted. Diluting an ensemble will probably yield a sling-like drink.

The experience of drinking an ensemble should present the interplay between different alcoholic products.

II. SLINGS

Standard Elements: Aromatic + Sweet + Strong + Weak

Irreducible Elements: Sweet + Strong + Weak.

Other Occasional Element(s): Sour (accent), Succulent (accent)

Key Element: Strong

Pivotal Element: Aromatic

Slings are made of the strong element that is sweetened, diluted, and aromatized. Early slings often contained more of the weak element than the strong. With modern under-proof spirits, slings should generally be made with less of the weak element than the strong.

The experience of drinking a sling should present mainly the alcoholic product(s) it is made of, moderately sweetened, diluted to open the flavor, and aromatized to lessen the sensation of any harshness coming from the ethanol.

→ A. Juleps are herbed slings.

→ B. Traditional-form Slings are spiced slings.

→ C. Toddies are zested slings.

→ D. Cocktails are bittered slings.

→ → 1. Traditional-form Cocktails

→ → 2. Crustas are cocktails accented with a little juice (sour or succulent). Originally, a Crusta would have always been a liqueuredly-fancy cocktail accented with a little lemon juice that was garnished with the pared peel of half a lemon and sugar ‘crusted’ on the rim.

I have chosen to call all true cocktails that are accented with a little juice ‘Crustas.’ This will surely bother many mixologists and bar-tenders. It bothers me a little bit, too. But, there is no other traditional term that can generally apply to this elemental variant of the cocktail, and I grew weary of referring to them as “juice-accented cocktails.” With the punchward-drift that has occurred since prohibition, many modern recipes add enough lemon juice to turn the Crusta into a punch.

III. POSSETS

Standard Elements: Aromatic + Sweet + Strong + Thick

Irreducible Elements: Sweet + Strong + Thick

Other Occasional Element(s): Weak (usually in the form of method dilution)

Key Element: Thick

Pivotal Element: Thick

Possets are made of the strong element that is thickened, sweetened, and often aromatized. When a Posset is served cold it will also be weakened by method-dilution or ice.

The experience of drinking a posset should present the alcoholic product(s) it is made of, noticeably-thickened, sweetened, and perhaps aromatized for complexity of flavor.

→ A. Traditional-form Possets are dairy-thickened possets.

→ B. Flips are egg-thickened possets.

→ C. Eggnogs are egg-&-dairy-thickened possets.

→ D. Batidas are condensed-milk-or-fruit-cream-thickened possets (that are usually blended with ice).

IV. PUNCHES

Standard Elements: Aromatic + Sour + Sweet + Strong + Weak

Irreducible Elements: Sour + Sweet + Strong + Weak

Other Occasional Element(s): Thick (acting to thicken), Thick (milk acting as weak), Succulent (acting as weak)

Key Element: Sour

Pivotal Element: Weak

Punches are made of the strong element that is soured (usually with lemon or lime juice), sweetened, diluted, and often aromatized. The weak element in a punch should not dominate the drink. A punch should harmonize its elements without letting any of them dominate the drink. The old British proportions for punch were “one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong and four of weak.” The traditional American proportions for punch is “two of sour, one of sweet, four of strong, three of weak.” Since modern spirits are under-proof and modern tastes are accepting of tartness, the traditional American proportions are the best starting point when making any punch, by the single serving or by the bowl.

The experience of drinking a punch should present a harmonious combination of its elements: sour balanced with sweet, strong balanced with weak, and perhaps aromatized for complexity of flavor.

Punch-ward drift: since about the time of prohibition, there has been considerable punch-ward drift. Mixed drinks that were originally made with only an accent of the sour element have been turned into drinks that are punches, elementally-speaking. For example, the Brandy Crusta which was originally made with only “a little” or a few “drops of” lemon juice are presented in modern books as containing half a fluid-ounce, or more, of the sour juice. Also, many drinks, like the Singapore ‘Sling’ (sic), Daiquiri, Sidecar, Margarita and Cosmopolitan were created with enough of the sour element to be punches – even though their creators undoubtedly thought of them as ‘slings’ or ‘cocktails.’ While this can be seen as a common lack of consideration-of (and intimacy-with) the elemental natures of various types of drinks, it can also be seen as a testament to the unwavering popularity of punch.

→ A. Aqueous Punches are diluted with water (or water-based beverages), and usually service and/or method ice.

→ → 1. Traditional-form Punches are diluted with added water (or water-based beverages), and method and/or service ice.

→ → 2. Fizzes are diluted with charged water and method ice (but not service ice) and are often thickened.

→ → 3. Swizzles are only diluted with crushed service ice.

→ → 4. Fixes are only diluted with method ice and service ice.

→ → 5. Sours are only diluted with method ice, and are occasionally thickened.

→ B. Milk Punches are diluted with milk, service and/or method ice, and occasionally charged water.

→ C. Juice Punches are diluted with succulent juice, method and/or service ice, and occasionally charged water.

V. GROGS

Standard and Irreducible Elements: Strong + Weak

Other Occasional Element(s): Aromatic, Sweet, Sour (acting as accent), Succulent (acting as accent),

Thick (milk acting as weak), Succulent (acting as weak)

Key Element: Weak

Pivotal Element: Weak (or other element acting as weak)

Grogs are made of the strong element, used to flavor and fortify at least twice as much of the weak element.

The experience of drinking a grog should present the weak element (or other so-acting element) as dominant, being only flavored and fortified with the strong element.

→ A. Traditional-form Grogs are made with flat water, and originally contained no ice.

→ B. Hot Grogs are made with hot, flat water (or water-based beverages), and are sweetened and aromatized. Originally made as hot slings and hot toddies in the days of proof or over-proof spirits, these drinks can be thought of as grogs when made with modern, under-proof spirits.

→ C. Coolers (and Highballs) are made with charged water, or charged water-based beverages, and service ice. Highballs are coolers with only twice as much of the weak element as the strong. The highball name is borrowed from the old railroad highball signal, which the traditional single lump of ice imitated by floating to the top as the drink was made.

→ → 1. Traditional-form Coolers & Highballs

→ → 2. Rickeys & Bucks are juice-accented (sour or succulent) coolers. Rickeys are weakened by plain soda and bucks are weakened by fancy soda.

→ D. Milkballs are made with milk as the weak element, generally in highball proportions.

→ → 1. Old-fashioned Milk Shakes are milkballs made by shaking the drink with ice. They are often sweetened and aromatized.

→ → 1. Puffs are essentially old-fashioned milk shakes that are also charged with plain soda or fancy soda.

→ E. Juiceballs are made with succulent juice as the weak element, generally in highball proportions.

VI. SUCCULENTS

Standard Elements: Strong + Succulent + Weak (usually in the form of method dilution)

Irreducible Elements: Strong + Succulent

Key Element: Succulent

Succulents are made of the strong element mixed with an equal-or-lesser amount of the succulent element, usually involving ice.

The experience of drinking a succulent should present the alcoholic product(s) it is made of, flavored and moderately-weakened with succulent juice.

Succulent-ward drift: since about the time of prohibition, there has been some succulent-ward drift. Mixed drinks that were originally made with only an accent of the succulent element have been turned into drinks that are succulents, elementally-speaking. For example, the Bronx Cocktail was presented in 1908 as being made with bitters and only “about a baspoonful of orange juice.” It is presented in modern books as containing a full fluid-ounce, or more, of the orange juice – and without bitters. This yields a drink with a noticeably different nature than the original. Many drinks, like the Blood & Sand, the Harlem and the Orange Blossom were created just before (or during) prohibition with enough of the succulent element for the succulents to be seen emerging at that time as a genre – even though the creators of those drinks undoubtedly thought of them as ‘cocktails.’ The emergence of the succulents can be seen as taking advantage of modern distribution of various types of fruit to all areas of the industrialized world.

→ A. Old-Fashioned Fruit Smashes contain the juice of smashed solid fruit (or vegetable), and will often be served in crushed service ice.

→ B. Modern Succulents contain the ready juice of fruit (or vegetable), may be sweetened, and usually contain dilution from method ice.

SPIRITS

Spirits are those products usually being as close to pure distillate as can be purchased. In the U.S.A., use of the words ‘spirit’ or ‘spirits’ is normally restricted to those liquors that contain little-or-no added flavoring or sweetening and that are not diluted to any point below 8o° (80 proof, or 40% alcohol-by-volume). This restriction does not apply to flavored spirits, which may contain considerable added flavoring (but no appreciable sweetening), and may be diluted to 70°.

Primary spirits – spirits that traditionally have their flavor unchanged by anything other than water-dilution and the wood they may have been aged in.

Primary spirits of wine – spirits distilled from wine. In the sense of alcoholic products, ‘wine’ is an Anglicization of the Latin word uinum., itself a Latinization of the Greek word oinos. In English, when the word ‘wine’ is used alone, it shall always mean fermented grapes. When using the word ‘wine’ to refer to other fermented fruits, the type must be specified – such as apple wine (a.k.a. cider), pear wine (a.k.a. perry), plum wine, and so-on. Primary spirits of wine are those spirits that are distilled from wine of any type – and that traditionally have their flavor un-changed by anything other than water-dilution and the wood they may have been aged in. Brandywine (meaning ‘burnt wine’ and usually shortened to just ‘brandy’), Cognac brandy(wine), Armagnac brandy(wine), apple brandy (including that from Calvados and ‘straight’ applejack), kirschwasser and grappa are all primary spirits of wine.

Primary spirits of beer – spirits distilled from beer. Beer is fermented grain. When the word ‘beer’ is used alone, it will always mean the modern, hopped product that is usually fermented from barley. Beer is an ancient beverage. For most of its history it contained no hops and was not carbonated. When the word ‘beer’ is used alone in labeling, it can be assumed to be hopped barley beer. Commercial wheat beer is also hopped. Sake is an un-hopped, un-carbonated rice beer. Even though it is just beer, strictly-and-historically-speaking, unhopped beer used in distillation is usually called ‘distiller’s beer’ to differentiate it. Primary spirits of beer are those spirits that are distilled from beer of any type – and that traditionally have their flavor un-changed by anything other than water-dilution and the wood they may have been aged in. All whiskies are primary spirits of beer – even whiskies that are made by blending one spirit of beer with other spirits of beer.

Primary spirits of toddy – spirits distilled from toddy. In the sense of alcoholic products, ‘toddy’ is an Anglicization of the Hindi word tari. It is the fermented nectar of the coconut palm blossom. When the word ‘toddy’ is used alone (and not in the sense of type of mixed drink by the same name), it shall always mean tari. When using the word ‘toddy’ to refer to other fermented nectars, the type must be specified – such as molasses toddy, sugarcane toddy, agave toddy, maple toddy, and so-on. Primary spirits of toddy are those spirits that are distilled from toddy of any type – and that traditionally have their flavor un-changed by anything other than water-dilution and the wood they may have been aged in. Ceylon arrack, Batavia arrack (even though it is fermented with a little rice), Thai arrack (even though it is fermented with a little rice - Mekhong™ is one brand), rum (traditional and light), cachaça, agricole rum and mezcal (including that from Tequila) are all primary spirits of toddy.

Secondary spirits – spirits that have been made by usually by maceration of flavoring material in neutral spirits and then secondarily-distilling flavorful spirits from them. Genever, gin, aquavit, absinthe, arak from the Near East (including that from Lebanon, Greek ouzo and Turkish raki), and all liquor from Germany called ‘geist,’ are secondary spirits. Cheaply-made compound gin and compound absinthe are not secondary spirits, as their flavors are merely added without any secondary distillation. They should be avoided.

Neutral spirits – spirits that have had their flavor reduced by multiple, neutral distillations. Vodka is a neutral spirit.

Cut spirits – spirits of one type cut with a greater amount of (usually-neutral) spirits of another type. Blended applejack is a cut spirit.

Flavored spirits – spirits of any type compounded with flavoring additives, but no additional sweetening. Flavored vodka, flavored rum and flavored whiskey are all flavored spirits. So-called ‘flavored brandy’ is virtually always liqueur and not a flavored spirit.

Cut-and-flavored spirits – cut spirits that are also flavored. Inlander rum (such as that made by Stroh™) is a cut-and-flavored spirit.

LIQUEURS

Liqueurs are those products made by sweetening (and often flavoring) spirits. In the U.S.A., use of the word ‘liqueur’ is normally restricted to those liquors that contain at least 2.5% sugar syrup (by weight in the finished product). Most liqueurs contain considerably-more sugar syrup than 2.5%. Many liqueur makers decline to offer details about what type of liqueur they produce or the methods they use. This is an attempt to promote pure brand identification. I believe that mixologists should have a more intimate understanding of the products they use than is engendered by thinking in brands.

Primary liqueurs – liqueurs made by sweetening primary spirits, but without adding any other flavoring. Some primary liqueurs of wine spirits have their flavor enhanced by some of the same type of fruit that was fermented and distilled to make their spirit base. Maraschino liqueur and several other European fruit liqueurs are primary liqueurs.

Secondary liqueurs – liqueurs made by sweetening secondary spirits. Curaçao liqueur (both traditional and triple-sec forms – being a sweetened secondary spirit of macerated orange peel), Cointreau™ (triple-sec Curaçao) liqueur, Chartreuse™ liqueur, Galliano™ liqueur, and pastis liqueur are all secondary liqueurs.

Flavored primary spirit liqueurs – liqueurs made by flavoring and sweetening primary spirits. Flavored primary spirit liqueurs must present flavor from their base spirit. Avoid flavored primary spirit liqueurs that are bottled below 60° – as there will be little, if any, flavor from the base spirit evident.

Flavored brandy liqueurs – liqueurs made by flavoring and sweetening brandywine. The best flavored brandy liqueurs are made from wood-aged brandywine. Cheap flavored brandy liqueurs are made from new, un-aged brandywine. Grand Marnier™ (orange-flavored), Cointreau™ Noir (orange-flavored), Marie Brizard™ Apry (apricot-flavored), and Bénédictine™ (proprietary) are all flavored brandy liqueurs

Flavored whisk(e)y liqueurs – liqueurs made by flavoring and sweetening whisk(e)y. Drambuie™ and various flavored Bourbon liqueurs are all flavored whisk(e)y liqueurs.

Flavored rum liqueurs – liqueurs made by flavoring and sweetening rum. Creole shrubb is a flavored new agricole rum liqueur that is so light in rum flavor that it makes for a good substitute for premium traditional Curaçao liqueur.

Ratafia liqueurs – liqueurs made by macerating material in spirits and then sweetening them. Macerations to make most ratafia liqueurs usually contain some aromatic material. Ratafia liqueurs may be made from either primary spirits or neutral spirits – with the flavor of the macerated material being most important. If there is any flavor from the spirit base, it must harmonize with, rather than dominate, the flavor of the macerated material. Therefore, ratafia liqueurs are often bottled at low proof, even when based of flavorful spirits. A few ratafia liqueurs are also creamed.

Heering™ (cherry ratafia – made with the aromatic cherry stones present), amaretto (apricot stone ratafia), Irish cream liqueur (low proof – the whiskey base subtly harmonizes with the aromatics), Saint Germain™ (elderflower ratafia), Domaine de Canton™ (ginger ratafia), falernum (spice, nut & lime ratafia), and limoncello (lemon peel ratafia) are all ratafia liqueurs.

Flavored neutral spirit liqueurs – liqueurs made by flavoring and sweetening neutral spirits.

Crème liqueurs – flavored neutral spirit liqueurs that are heavily-sweetened. In France, crème liqueurs must contain at least 40% sugar syrup. In general, it is advisable to purchase crème liqueurs from France over the cheaper American versions. Crème liqueurs are usually fairly-low proof – from 30° to 50°. This is due to the high amount of sugar syrup in them and is perfectly acceptable since there is no underlying flavor from the neutral spirit to be sought. Flavors of crème liqueurs include cassis (black currant), mûre (blackberry), pêche (peach), menthe (mint), cacao (cocoa), café (coffee – Kahlua™ is one brand), melon (Midori™), and anise (crème d’anis or anisette liqueur).

Huile liqueurs – flavored neutral spirit liqueurs that are less-sweetened than crème liqueurs. No liqueurs that I know of are labeled as ‘huile de’ at present. But, this type of liqueur, identifiable from nineteenth century sources, is still around. Some bottling of this type of liqueur will be labeled with ‘schnapps’ or other words. Huile liqueurs are bottled at slightly-higher proof than crème liqueurs. Berentzen™ Apfel Korn is a liqueur that might once have been called ‘huile de pomme’ (apple) liqueur. Malibu™ coconut is so low in proof that it does not present the flavor I would expect from a flavored rum liqueur, so I think of it as a ‘huile de noix de coco liqueur’ for mixological purposes.

Schnapps liqueurs – flavored neutral spirit liqueurs that are less-sweetened than crème liqueurs, but bottled at the same proofs as for spirits. The German word schnaps just means spirits, in the alcoholic sense. German schnaps may be either primary liqueurs or secondary liqueurs, but usually have noticeable flavor other than that found in brandy, whisk(e)y or rum. I believe that when large numbers of Germans immigrated to the U.S.A., they created demand for ‘schnaps’ that the American liquor industry satisfied by making flavored, high-proof liqueurs. The word ‘schnapps’ in the U.S.A. seems to have vague legal definition, and so many liqueurs are sold as ‘schnapps’ that are relatively low-proof. Low-proof ‘schnapps’ liqueurs should probably be avoided. Goldschlager (cinnamon-flavored), 99™ Peaches, 99™ Apples, and Rumpelminze™ (peppermint-flavored) are all traditional-proof ‘schnapps’ liqueurs.

FORTIFIED WINES

Fortified wines are made by fortifying wine with a spirit – usually raw or new brandy. Fortification usually takes place during fermentation, which kills the yeast and halts fermentation before it is complete. Because they contain distilled ethanol, fortified wines can be seen as liquor, even though they are often used as normal wines.

Sherry wine – fortified wine from the area of Jerez, Spain. Sherry wines ranges from very dry to very sweet. Fino and manzanilla Sherries are very dry and light in flavor, making them good as aperitifs. Oloroso seco Sherry is dry, but richer enough flavor – which makes it good for mixing while controlling sweetness by adding sugar or not. Pedro Ximénez Sherry is very sweet and very rich in flavor – and is mostly used as a cordial, or occasionally as digestif.

Port wine – fortified wine from the Douro river area of Portugal. Port wines are all sweet, their varieties differentiated by aging and presence of lack of sediment in the bottle. Ruby Port is good for mixing, with the ‘reserve’ variety being considered better. White Port is also good for mixing. Vintage Port is good as a complex cordial. Late-bottled vintage Port, crusted Port and tawny Port are all considered inferior to a good vintage Port, but may have their merits.

Madeira wine – fortified wine from the Portuguese island of Madeira. Madeira wines range from very dry to sweet. Sercial Madeira is very dry and somewhat light in flavor. Verdelho Madeira is somewhat dry, but richer in flavor than sercial – which makes it good for mixing while controlling sweetness by adding sugar or not. Rainwater Madeira is not ideal, but may be used for mixing if verdelho is not available. Bual Madeira is sweet enough to be used as a cordial. Malmsey Madeira is very sweet and rich, and is used almost exclusively as a cordial – it was used to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence.

AROMATIZED WINES

Aromatized wine is made by fortifying wine with a maceration of aromatic material in neutral spirit (or new brandy).

Vermouth – white wine fortified with a maceration of aromatic material in neutral spirit (or new brandy) that contains some wormwood. Vermouth is an old German word for ‘wormwood.’

Sweet vermouth – vermouth that is sweetened with caramelized sugar. Even though it is mostly brown, sweet vermouth is called rosso (‘red’) in Italian and rouge (red’) in French. Sweet vermouth was formerly called ‘Italian vermouth.’

Medium vermouth – vermouth that is sweetened with un-caramelized sugar. It is called bianco (‘white’) in Italian and blanc (‘white’) in French.

Dry vermouth – vermouth that is not sweetened, or only minimally-sweetened, relying mostly on the sweetness of the wine used to make it. Dry vermouth was formerly called ‘French vermouth.’

Quina – red or white wine fortified with a maceration of aromatic material in neutral spirit (or new brandy) that contains some cinchona. Cinchona is the source of quinine.

Rouge quina – quina made of red wine. Dubonnet™ Rouge and Lillet™ Rouge are rouge quinas.

Blanc quina – quina made of white wine. Dubonnet Blanc™ and Lillet™ Blanc are blanc quinas.

BITTERS

Bitters are traditionally made by maceration of aromatic material in spirits. They are also sometimes made by blending the maceration with an infusion (in water) of similar aromatic materials.

Additive bitters – bitters that should contain no sweetening, are often relatively high-proof – and that are meant to be used in small amounts.

Aromatic additive bitters – additive bitters made of proprietary blends of aromatic material. Angostura™ Aromatic, Boker’s™, Fee’s™ Aromatic, and Peychaud’s™ are all aromatic additive bitters

Other additive bitters include; orange (peel), lemon (peel), peach (stone), cherry (stone), cacao (cocoa bean), rhubarb and celery.

Grand bitters – bitters that usually contain some sweetening, are often relatively low-proof – and that are meant to be used in larger amounts, or as thoroughbreds. Grand bitters are usually proprietary. Aperol™, Averna™, Calisaya™, Campari™, Cynar™, Becherovka™, Jägermeister™, Picon™ Bierre (bitters for beer), Picon™ Club, Torani™ Amer (the best substitute for no-longer-produced old-formula Picon™ Amer), Zwack™ Unicum, and any brand of fernet branca (Fratelli™ being the most common) are all grand bitters.

SOME BASIC TERMINOLOGY:

Aperitif – a beverage drunk to stimulate appetite. Aromatized wines and grand bitters make excellent thoroughbred aperitifs. Some mixed drinks are also good aperitifs.

Cordial – a beverage drunk as dessert or part of it. Cordials are usually sweet. The fact that many liqueurs may be used unmixed as cordials could be the reason why the word ‘cordial’ is taken to be synonymous for ‘liqueur’ in the U.S.A. Even some mixed drinks make excellent cordials.

Digestif – a beverage drunk aid digestion or settle the stomach after a meal. Brandy and some bitters are thought to be good thoroughbred digestifs. Some mixed drinks are also thought to have digestif properties.

Dirty – an instruction to a two barspoons, or more, of olive brine to a pre-method drink.

Down – a drink, mixed or not, that is served in a tumbler.

Dry – lack of sweetness, or less-sweet.

Fancy – a drink that is at least partially-sweetened by a modifying ingredient that is both sweet and presents additional flavor.

Garnish – to add an ingredient that is used mostly accent or decorate an otherwise finished dish or drink.

Garniture – anything that is used to garnish with (like furniture is used to furnish with).

Goblet – a drinking vessel that has a stem.

Liqueur – liquor that is sold containing at least 2.5% sugar syrup (by weight in the finished product).

Liquor – a beverage product(s) containing any appreciable amount of distilled ethanol.

Neat – a single, unmixed beverage product served at about room temperature.

Method – any of the major methods for combining or modifying drinks.

Method ice – ice that is in the volume of about one-half of a fluid ounce. Ice in this size has agreater relative surface area than service ice. This allows for more effective chilling and dilution when applying method, such as stirring or shaking.

Misted – a drink, otherwise-mixed or not, that is served with crushed ice in it.

On the rocks – a drink, otherwise-mixed or not, that is served with service ice in it.

Plain – a drink that is either unsweetened, or sweetened with plain sugar or simple sugar syrup.

Prohibition – in the U.S.A., the period of time when the Volstead Act was in effect. This was from the beginning of 1920 to nearly the end of 1933. Prohibition is commonly blamed for a decline in mixology and the art of American bartending. This is somewhat true. But, in my opinion, the decline actually started around 1910-1914. That is when American bar books first appeared listing various types of drinks with the common feature of being served ‘up’ alphabetically under the heading of ‘cocktails.’ I believe that this was an image-driven – much like the modern practice of calling every drink served in the conical cocktail goblet a ‘Martini.’

Service ice – ice that is cubed and in the volume of one fluid-ounce (also having one-inch sides), or larger.

Spirit – liquor that is sold at 80° (40% alcohol-by volume) or higher, that is either unsweetened or only slightly-sweetened. Flavored spirits may be sold at 70° (35% alcohol-by-volume).

Straight (as a labeling term) – a term that (in the U.S.A.) means a spirit that is not blended with another neutral spirit, and that has been aged in contact with wood for at least two years.

Straight (as a service term) – a single beverage product served chilled. In lay speech, ‘straight’ is also used to mean ‘neat.’

Straight-down – a combination of the meanings associated with ‘straight’ (as a service term) and ‘down.’

Straight-up – a combination of the meanings associated with ‘straight’ (as a service term) and ‘up.’ In lay speech, ‘straight-up’ is also used to mean simply ‘up.’

Tablet ice – a very common size and shape of ice that is not ideal for mixed drinks. Tablet ice used as service ice will make for watery drinks. Tablet ice is somewhat acceptable for use as method ice.

Tumbler – a drinking vessel that has no stem and rests on a flat of beveled base.

Up – a drink, mixed or not, that is served in a goblet.

Vessel – the vessel that a drink is served in, and drunk from.

BASIC PORTIONS – THE CUP, THE GILL, THE JIGGER:

In traditional, pre-prohibition, American bartending, any mixed drink should be made from the same amount of alcoholic product that would be served if un-mixed.

The traditional portion of beer is the cup, or 8 fluid-ounces.

The traditional portion of wine is the gill, or 4 fluid-ounces.

The majority of mixed drinks, however, are based on liquor, for which the traditional portion is the jigger, or 2 fluid-ounces. The device used to measure this amount, or parts thereof, is also called a jigger. The following quotations indicate the pre-prohibition meaning of the word jigger.

George Kappeler – Modern American Drinks – 1895: “A jigger is a measure used for measuring liquors when mixing drinks; it holds two ounces. A pony holds half a jigger.”

Cuyler Reynolds – The Banquet Book – 1902: “Jigger. — The contents are equivalent to 2 ounces”

C.W. Williamson – The History of Western Ohio and Auglaize County – 1905: “The quantity varied from a jigger (two ounces) to sixteen jiggers per day, and the contractor who offered the greatest number of jiggers per day was able to secure the largest number of hands.” [This excerpt is from the portion of the book covering the construction of the Erie canal]

The American fluid-ounce is virtually-equal to 30 milliliters. Thus the traditional American jigger is virtually-equal to 60 milliliters.

When making a single-portion mixed drink with multiple liquors according to pre-prohibition practice, their total volume should still be 2 fluid-ounces. This allows for advantageous selection of service glassware, along with familiarity and control over proportions of alcoholic-to-non-alcoholic ingredients.

Sometime during or after prohibition, the art of proportioning multiple liquors within the 2 fl-oz. jigger was largely-abandoned and mostly-lost. I think that it should be restored. Unless sheer inebriation or the maintenance of alcoholism is the goal, 2 fl-oz. of liquor will contain plenty of alcohol for one mixed drink. This traditional amount also presents enough volume for mixing liquors in just about any desired proportion.

The simplest way to jigger two liquors into a single-portion mixed drink is to use a pony [1 fl-oz. | 30 ml.] of each, which yields a drink that can be described as ‘one-to-one.’ Many pre-prohibition drink books indicate this proportion for any drink made of two liquors. For modern tastes, other proportions can be more desirable.

For a ‘two-to-one’ drink, 1-1/3 fl-oz. [40 ml.] of the base liquor should be modified with 2/3 fl-oz. [20 ml.] of another liquor.

For a ‘three-to-one’ drink, 1-1/2 fl-oz. [45 ml.] of the base liquor should be modified with 1/2 fl-oz. [15 ml.] of another liquor.

For a ‘five-to-one’ drink, 1-2/3 fl-oz. [50 ml.] of the base liquor should be modified with 1/3 fl-oz. [10 ml.] of another liquor.

For a ‘seven-to-one’ drink, 1-3/4 fl-oz. [52.5 ml.] of the base liquor should be modified with 1/4 fl-oz. [7.5 ml.] of another liquor.

When making a drink with equal parts of three liquors, 2/3 fl-oz. [20 ml.] of each is appropriate.

Many other variations are possible and often desirable. Some drinks are made of 1 fl-oz. [30 ml.] of the base liquor modified by 1/2 fl-oz. [15 ml.] each of two modifying liquors. Other drinks are made of 1/2 fl-oz. [15 ml.] each of four liquors.

When adjusting proportions between spirits and sweeter liquors (such as liqueurs, fortified wines or aromatized wines) within in the traditional jigger, one must be aware that the sweetness of the finished drink can be greatly affected. Many ‘one-to-one’ or ‘two-to-one’ drinks are not additionally sweetened with sugar or syrup, while some ‘seven-to-one’ drinks are.

When a liquor is added to a drink in any amount of less than 1/4 fl-oz., its function is usually more as accent than modifier, and need not be measured as part of the 2 fl-oz. jigger.

TECHNIQUES

There are a number of named techniques used to compose mixed drinks.

BUILD – the ingredients are poured or deposited directly into the vessel that the drink will be served in. Building is acceptable when the ingredients of a drink will readily-mix as they are poured and when chilling, dilution and aeration are not important – or when the amount of chill and dilution that will come from service ice is sufficient. Building a drink is also best when the ingredients should remain is separate layers.

MUDDLE (or TRITURATE) – some ingredients are broken down with a wooden muddler (a.k.a. sling stick, toddy stick) so that they will readily mix with other ingredients.

STIR – the ingredients are poured or deposited into a mixing glass, where they will be stirred, usually with ice. When stirred with method ice, a drink will be mixed, chilled and diluted – but not noticeably-aerated. Stirring is best when aeration is not wanted and a fairly clear drink is desirable. Maximum chill is achieved by continuously stirring a drink with method ice for about one-minute-and-forty-five-seconds. After that, the drink will not get any colder.

CHURN (OR SWIZZLE) – the ingredients are churned, swizzled or rapidly stirred, usually with crushed ice. When churned with crushed ice, a drink with be mixed, chilled and diluted, and moderately-aerated. Churning is best when a drink should be rapidly chilled, but less aerated than with shaking and less incorporated with the ice than with blending.

SHAKE – the ingredients are poured or deposited into a mixing tin, where they will be shaken, usually with ice. When shaken with method ice, a drink will be mixed, chilled, diluted, and aerated. Shaking is best when aeration or emulsification is wanted and a cloudy drink is acceptible. Maximum chill is achieved by vigorously shaking a drink with method ice for about fifteen seconds. After that, the drink will not get noticeably colder, but will become increasingly-aerated.

TOSS – the ingredients are poured, or tossed, between two tumblers or cups to mix and moderately-aerate. Tossing can be done with ice to chill, or without ice to avoid chilling. Once a common method, tossing is now rare.

ROLL – the ingredients are poured or deposited into a mixing tin, where they will be ‘rolled’ by turning the sealed mixing gently end over end a few times, with or without ice. Rolling is best when ingredients should be mixed, but not aerated. Rolling also helps maintain the texture or charge of some ingredients and may be considered the mixological equivalent of culinary ‘folding.’

BLEND – the ingredients are poured or deposited into a mechanical blender, where they will be blended, usually with crushed ice. When blended with crushed ice, a drink will be mixed, chilled, diluted and aerated. Maximum chill is achieved quickly in a mechanical blender and much of the crushed ice remains frozen, so that the drink itself will be very cold when served, and will remain cold. Blending is best when a very cold drink is wanted in which a large amount of still-frozen crushed ice is acceptable.

Sliders & Punch

2010-10-08T19:07:00.001-07:00

Sliders & Punch

by Andrew ("the Alchemist")

If I make a cheeseburger small enough to be considered a slider, is it not still a cheeseburger? If I serve it on the same platter I might use to serve hors d’oeuvres, does it then cease to be a cheeseburger?

I’m pretty sure most would agree that a slider is a burger, even though it is smaller than the traditional size.

Then why is it a surprise to some that the Sidecar is a punch?

It has all of the traditional elements of punch: aromatic (the lemon twist), sour (the lemon juice), sweet (the sugar in the liqueur), strong (the brandy), and weak (the dilution added when shaking – which is considerable).

You can’t make a drink that is more-elementally a punch than the Sidecar. Does its elemental nature change just because it is made one portion at a time and served in a glass that it borrowed from the cocktails?

The Dustbin of History

2010-10-08T17:51:00.000-07:00

The Dustbin of History

One could say that the American slings (including juleps, cobblers and true cocktails) have been left in the dustbin of history, having mounted an historic but temporary challenge to punch’s title as the all-time greatest form of mixed drink. Think about the sour element in most of today’s celebrated new drinks. Punch is King again (even though many of his loyal subjects insist on calling him "Cocktail").

Pre-prohibition Drinks of the Week [No. 3]

2010-10-03T14:39:00.000-07:00

Pre-prohibition Drinks of the Week [No. 3]

By Andrew “the Alchemist”
Sunday, October 3, 2010
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It’s Sunday, and time for another edition of the Pre-prohibition Drinks of the Week!
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Pre-prohibition Ensemble of the Week:

The GARDEN OF EDEN
Vessel: 2 fl-oz. stemmed cordial goblet
Build in separate layers in the vessel:
→ 1/2 fl-oz. crème Yvette liqueur
→ 1/2 fl-oz. apricot-flavored brandy liqueur {I recommend Marie Brizard™ ‘Apry’}
Enjoy!

From: The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book – by Albert Stevens Crockett (1935)
{This drink is from the main layer of material in Crockett’s book, which he states came from the original recipe book in his possession that had been used in the hotel’s bar until it closed in 1919.}
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Pre-prohibition Sling of the Week:

The (OLD-FASHIONED) INIMITABLE COCKTAIL
Vessel: 5-1/2 fl-oz. (or larger) old-fashioned glass tumbler {chilled}
Build in the tumbler:
→ 1 cube of sugar {standard 1 tsp. size}
→ 1-3 fl-dsh. Peychaud’s aromatic additive bitters
→ 4 drops freshly-pressed Eureka lemon juice
→ ~ 1/4 fl-oz. flat water {or more, depending on taste, or the proof of the spirit}
Muddle until the sugar is dissolved and cocktail water is created
Add:
→ 2 fl-oz. service ice {2 full-ounce cubes}
→ 2 fl-oz. old tom gin
Garnish by twisting a strip of lemon zest over the drink and then dropping it in
Briefly stir the drink in its tumbler
Enjoy!

From: Modern American Drinks – by George Kappeler (1895)
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Pre-prohibition Posset of the Week:

The LALLA ROOKH
Vessel: 5 fl-oz. glass wine goblet {chilled}
Combine in a mixing tin:
→ 1 fl-oz. Cognac brandy
→ 1 fl-oz. pot-still Jamaica rum
→ 3/4 fl-oz. vanilla syrup
→ 1 fl-oz. heavy cream
→ plenty of method ice
Cover with half-tin and shake vigorously to mix, chill, dilute and aerate
Finely-strain into the goblet
Garnish with an authentic maraschino cherry on a skewer
Enjoy!

From: Modern American Drinks – by George Kappeler (1895)
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Pre-prohibition Punch of the Week:

The MIDDLETON
Vessel: 5-1/2 fl-oz. glass sour goblet {chilled}
Combine in a mixing tin:
→ 1-1/3 fl-oz. pot-still Jamaica rum
→ 2/3 fl-oz. genever
→ 1 fl-oz. freshly-pressed Eureka lemon juice
→ 2/3 fl-oz. grenadine {authentic pomegranate syrup - use more, if desired}
→ 1 dsp. egg white {1 dessert-spoon = 2 teaspoons}
→ plenty of method ice
Cover with half-tin and shake vigorously to mix, chill, dilute and aerate
Finely-strain into the goblet
Garnish with an authentic maraschino cherry on a skewer
Enjoy!

From: The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book – by Albert Stevens Crockett (1935)
{This drink is from the main layer of material in Crockett’s book, which he states came from the original recipe book in his possession that had been used in the hotel’s bar until it closed in 1919.}
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Pre-prohibition Grog of the Week:

The BILLY TAYLOR COOLER
Vessel: 13-1/2 fl-oz. tall glass cooler tumbler
→ 5 fl-oz. service ice {5 full-ounce cubes}
Build in the tumbler:
→ 2 fl-oz. dry gin
→ 1/4 fl-oz. freshly-pressed Key lime juice
→ 6 fl-oz. charged water
Insert straw
Garnish with a full-wheel slice of Key lime
Enjoy!

From: Drinks – by Jacques Straub (1914/1948)
Note: many people call this a “Gin Rickey,” but since it also has its own unique, pre-prohibition name, I have chosen to use it. There is reason to suspect that the original Rickey was based on American rye whiskey. In 1914 the default lime used in bars in the U.S.A. was the Key lime. A good, room-temperature Key lime will yield up to 1/3 fl-oz. of juice. The source indicates the “juice of 1/2 a lime.” That would be about 1/6 fl-oz., which I have rounded up to the more-easily-measured 1/4 fl-oz. I recommend using either the juice of half a Key lime or 1/4 fl-oz.
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Pre-prohibition Succulent of the Week:

The EDDY
Vessel: 5 fl-oz. glass wine goblet {chilled}
Combine in a mixing tin:
→ 1 fl-oz. dry gin
→ 1 fl-oz. dry vermouth
→ 1 fl-oz. freshly-pressed orange juice {Valencia or navel}
→ plenty of method ice
Cover with half-tin and shake vigorously to mix, chill, dilute and aerate
Finely-strain into the goblet
Garnish with a quarter-wheel slice of orange
Enjoy!

From: The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book – by Albert Stevens Crockett (1935)
{This drink is from the main layer of material in Crockett’s book, which he states came from the original recipe book in his possession that had been used in the hotel’s bar until it closed in 1919.}

From Lowbrow to Highbrow: Elemental Musings on the Black Russian

2010-09-30T15:49:00.000-07:00

From Lowbrow to Highbrow: Elemental Musings on the Black Russian

By Andrew “the Alchemist”

Thursday, September 30, 2010

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The Black Russian is an exceedingly simple drink, but what type of drink is it? Using my usual method for getting at the elemental nature of a drink, I first ask which of the six elements are present.

The six elements as I consider them are: aromatic, sour, sweet, strong, weak, thick.

The aromatic element could be argued about in the Black Russian. Crème de café liqueur (Kahlua is but one brand) could easily be said to be aromatic. Roasted coffee beans are decidedly-aromatic. But, in compounding the Black Russian, the mixer does not add any purely-aromatic ingredient. For now, I will skip the aromatic question.

There is no sour element in the Black Russian, so it is not a punch (which includes the sours).

The sweet element is present in the drink, all coming from the crème de café liqueur.

Being made of two liquors and ice, the strong element is very present in the Black Russian.

The weak element is present in the form of ice, which will dilute the drink.

There is no thick element in the Black Russian, so it is not a posset (which includes flips and eggnogs).

So, the elements we have are: aromatic (possibly) + sweet + strong + weak. The Black Russian is not drowned in the weak element, so it isn't any grog-like drink. This leaves it trying to be some type of sling. (As has been aptly-shown by Wondrich and others, the Singapore 'Sling' is a mis-named punch.) If the Black Russian were aromatized by garnishing it with freshly-grated nutmeg, it would then be mostly in the form of a (liqueuredly-fancy) traditional sling.

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The Black Russian Sling (on the rocks)

Vessel: 5½ fl-oz. (or larger) old-fashioned glass tumbler

Build in the tumbler

(If the following order is used, the heavier liqueur will mix itself into the lighter spirit)

→ 2 fl-oz. service ice (2 full-ounce cubes)

→ 1 fl-oz. plain vodka

→ 1 fl-oz. crème de café liqueur

Briefly stir the drink in its tumbler

Garnish by grating some nutmeg onto the surface of the drink

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I tried applying a different method to fully-mix it, and to get my desired amount of dilution - but then stop dilution there. I don't consider all dilution evil - it can open flavors.

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The Black Russian Sling (served up)

Vessel: 4½ fl-oz. traditional cocktail goblet (chilled)

Combine in a mixing glass:

→ 1 fl-oz. plain vodka

→ 1 fl-oz. crème de café liqueur

→ method ice

Stir slowly to mix, chill and dilute

Strain into the goblet
Garnish by grating some nutmeg onto the surface of the drink

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I then thought about turning it into a bittered sling – better known as a true cocktail. Bitters will remove even more of the harshness of the ethanol than most other ingredients of the aromatic element. For this, I chose Fee's aromatic additive bitters because of the pronounced cinnamon flavor that I thought would go nicely with the coffee flavor.

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The Black Russian Cocktail

Vessel: 4½ fl-oz. traditional cocktail goblet (chilled)

Combine in a mixing glass:

→ 1 fl-oz. plain vodka

→ 1 fl-oz. crème de café liqueur

→ 2 fl-dsh. Fee’s aromatic additive bitters

→ method ice

Stir slowly to mix, chill and dilute

Strain into the goblet

Garnish with an authentic maraschino cherry on a skewer

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Finally, I adjusted the proportion within the traditional, American 2-fl-oz. jigger to 3:1.

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The Black Russian Cocktail (3:1)

Vessel: 4½ fl-oz. traditional cocktail goblet (chilled)

Combine in a mixing glass:

→ 1½ fl-oz. plain vodka

→ ½ fl-oz. crème de café liqueur

→ 2 fl-dsh. Fee’s aromatic additive bitters

→ method ice

Stir slowly to mix, chill and dilute

Strain into the goblet

Garnish with an authentic maraschino cherry on a skewer

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I liked this last one the best. For now, I will leave it to others to try this same approach with the Rusty Nail, Godfather, Incredible Hulk, etc.

Tasting Report

2010-09-30T12:34:00.001-07:00

I posted a brief report on three liquors that I tasted for the first time today. It can be found here:

http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com/2010/09/30/tasting-report/

R.I.P.

2010-09-29T15:59:00.001-07:00

OBITUARIES

We mourn two that paid with their lives for the sophistication and glamour that the public perceived in their imagery.

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“Cocktail” (original meaning) – born before 1803 – died sometime after 1910

(long, strong life – sudden illness – legal problems prevented resuscitation attempts)

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And from the same family…

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“Martini” (original meaning) – born before 1888 – died sometime after 2010

(suffered early illness – assaulted in 1993 – lingered until final heroic attempts to resuscitate failed)

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In Pace Requiescat

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Final note: the purest-of-the-Martini-purists might say that Martini became unrecognizable to his closest childhood friends when he went completely ‘dry’ sometime before prohibition. Some suggest that he was not as good as Martinez, his father. Martini's mid-life friends, also purists, scoff at these suggestions. Purism is on a sliding-scale, apparently. Most factions of Martini's friends agree that Apple Martini should be sent far away for her 1993 assault on Martini. Cocktail’s purest friends died at around the same time he did – and so there have been few arguments about his true identity.

Cock-tailed & Cocktail

2010-09-28T08:21:00.001-07:00

Cock-tailed & Cocktail

From the Oxford English Dictionary:

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Cock-tailed

1. Of horses: Having the tail docked, so that the short stump left sticks up like a cock’s tail. Common in the case of hunters, stage-coach horses, etc., during the latter part of the 18^th century [1700’s] and first part of the 19^th [1800’s].

1769 – Dublin Mercury: “A pair of beautiful black cock-tailed geldings”

2. Having the tail (or hinder part) cocked up.

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Cocktail (noun)

1. a. A cock-tailed horse. The fact that hunters and stage-coach horses, the tails of which were generally shortened in this way, were not as a rule thoroughbreds seems to have been the origin of the modern turf application [of the word ‘cocktail’]. b. ‘Any horse of racing stamp and qualities, but decidedly not thorough-bred, from a stain known in his parentage’ (Dictionary of Rural Sports, 1870).

2. (more fully: cocktail beetle) A brachelytrous beetle which ‘cocks up’ the posterior part of the body when irritated; the Devil’s Coach-horse.

3. [slang, orig. U.S.A.] A drink, consisting of spirit mixed with a small quantity of bitters, some sugar, etc.

1803 – The Farmer’s Cabinet: “Drank a glass of cocktail – excellent for the head; all sauntered away to see the girls”

1806 – Balance: “’Cock tail’ then, is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters – it is vulgarly called a ‘bittered sling’”

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Cocktail (attributive & adjective)

1. That [which or whom] cocks the tail.

1600 – Rowlands, The Letting of Humour’s Blood: “How cock-taile proude he doth his head aduance – How rare his spurres do ring the morris-daunce”

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The Alchemist says:

Drink-lore aside, it seems plausible that the mixed-drink meaning of the above stems from the sense of a cock-tailed horse not being thoroughbred. We could describe a drink as being thoroughbred if it were un-bittered, unmixed, undiluted, unsweetened liquor.