There is a new drink by myself, the Plattsburgh Blossom, with the reason for the name given, and with punch and cocktail versions of the drink on my other blog at:
http://elementalmixology.wordpress.com/2011/03/31/the-plattsburgh-blossom/
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Traditional Units of Measure Pertaining to Mixology
After repeated requests from students, I have posted a new page on www.elementalmixology.com giving traditional units of measure pertaining to mixology. The page can be reached through the link entitled "Traditional Units of Measure Pertaining to Mixology."
- Andrew
- Andrew
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Books on Drink: A History (with ratings)
I am often asked about the books on drink that I read and recommend. So I finally put this together. It is by no means an encyclopedic listing of all books on drink, and the ratings reflect no one's opinions but my own.
- Andrew (the "Alchemist")
1820 – 1879: THE FOUNDATIONAL ERA
Books from this period usually group drinks by types with common discernable characteristics. In this period, the cocktail is but one clearly definable type of drink. Also, books from this period are faithful to the jigger (or wine-glass) as a unit of measure equaling two-fluid-ounces that is the basic portion of total liquor to be made into any type of mixed drink. Where books from this era give recipes for single-serving drinks containing multiple liquors, they will jigger them together into a total of two-fluid-ounces.
During the Foundational Era, the majority of drinks are based on primary spirits, such as brandy, whiskey and rum. But, gin is present and respected.
The Foundational Era begins with drinks already as-commonly sweetened by flavored syrups and liqueurs as they are by plain sugar or sugar syrup.
1880 – 1908: THE GOLDEN AGE – the rise of gin and vermouth
Books from this period continue the practice of presenting drinks by types, and with the clear sense that cocktails are but one type of drink. They also remain faithful to the jigger as a unit of measure equaling two-fluid-ounces that is the total portion of liquor in mixed drinks.
It is during the Golden Age that gin begins to be more popular than other spirits. Also during this era, cocktails (real ones) that are sweetened by vermouth (in addition to – or instead of – sugar, syrups or liqueurs) become common.
1909 – 1919: THE LATE PRE-PROHIBITION ERA – the breaking of the cocktail
Books from this period often group drinks alphabetically, usually mis-calling many other types of drinks “cocktails” – as long as they are served ‘up.’ This formless, alphabetical approach will eventually contribute to the idea that knowing drink names is as important as knowing their natures.
During the Late Pre-Prohibition Era, gin has completed its rise and gin-based drinks become the norm. Also, it was during this period that the first corruption of the Martini Cocktail gathered steam - with drinks such as the Good Times Cocktail and Hoffman House Cocktail being called "Martinis" or "Dry Martinis"
1920 – 1934: THE PROHIBIITON ERA – the complete debasement of the cocktail
The Prohibition Era exhibits the supremacy of the image of the so-called “cocktail” over the elemental reality of the traditional type of drink by the same name. For the first time, many books from this period actually call themselves “cocktail” books. These books tend to force all new drinks into cocktail goblets. This practice will eventually contribute to the breaking of the jigger.
The Prohibition Era continues the supremacy of gin, and actually expands upon it.
1935 – 1949: THE REPEAL ERA – the breaking of the jigger
Books from this period expand upon the shortcomings of the earlier post-Golden Age eras by divorcing their recipes from the jigger as the basic two-fluid-ounce portion of total liquor in mixed drinks. This is probably a consequence of the image-driven desire to fit drinks of various types into the iconic cocktail goblet.
It is noteworthy that during the Repeal Era, mixology begins to notice vodka.
1950 – 1969: THE BLANK ERA – the rise of vodka
Not many drinks books seem to have been published during this era – hence its name. Also appropriate to the name is the fact that during the Blank Era, vodka-based drinks become common, and nearly every bar begins to stock vodka.
It is noteworthy that during the Blank Era, tiki drinks enjoyed their greatest popularity. Tiki drinks do not form a genre, elementally-speaking – most of them are punches of one sub-genre or another. The unifying characteristic of tiki drinks is that they are all meant to be evocative of tropical exoticism.
1970 – 1999: THE DRINKS NADIR ERA – the supremacy of vodka
Books from this period expand upon the shortcomings of the earlier post-Golden Age eras by becoming completely devoid of any sense of basic portions of total liquor.
Many books from the Drinks Nadir Era contain the words “complete” or “bible” in their titles – the suggestion being that the purchase of one book (and the reference to – or memorization of – the formless recipes found therein) can substitute for mixological knowledge.
It is during the Drinks Nadir Era that the word “cocktail” (in its de-based, image-driven meaning) is partially abandoned in favor of the word “Martini” – which likewise becomes largely de-based.
During the Drinks Nadir Era, pre-mixes and artificial mixers become common. Also, it is during this era that vodka-based drinks become the norm.
2000 – ????: THE DRINKS RENAISSANCE ERA – bar-lore and echoes of the Prohibition Era
Books (and bars) in this period tend to restore freshness to the sour element. This restoration should not have been required to begin with, and it is perhaps a mistake to make much fuss over the return to fresh juices. It’s a bit like bragging about having recently stopped cheating on a significant other.
The Drinks Renaissance Era sees the expansion of the use of the aromatic element, especially in the form of additive bitters, spices and aromatic produce.
A common theme in this era and its drink books is that of a return to “correct” mixology and “proper cocktails.” Unfortunately, this does not include the return to the two-fluid-ounce jigger as the total portion of liquor in drinks – and many drinks are still served with too-much or too-little alcohol. The ridiculously-oversized cocktail goblet is still the home of many non-cocktails. There is a clear echo of the Prohibition Era in the fervent re-invigoration of the practice of mis-calling drinks “cocktails” to suggest their quality. The word “cocktail” returns to the titles of books from this period more than in any other since the Prohibition Era. Earlier books are widely reprinted during this era, but usually with a subtitle or blurb about them being “cocktail” books.
The word “mixology” is so loosely applied during the Drinks Renaissance Era that many actual mixologists abandon the word itself.
During this era, many bar professionals attempt to roll-back the use of the word “Matini” in its baseless, image-driven sense – even though they largely fail to do the same for the word “cocktail.”
It is probably a result of a generalized retrograde view that the Drinks Renaissance Era exhibits the ascendancy of bar-lore – the tales associated with the creation of individual historic drinks. Bar-lore usually focuses on personalities and happenstance rather than mixological principles and evolution. Unfortunately, bar-lore is often mistaken for mixology.
Likewise retrograde in view is the re-embrace of gin – a clear and deliberate echo of the supremacy of gin during the Prohibition Era.
Another echo of the Prohibition Era found in the Drinks Renaissance Era is the commercial success of the so-called ‘speakeasy’ type bar.
- Andrew (the "Alchemist")
1820 – 1879: THE FOUNDATIONAL ERA
Books from this period usually group drinks by types with common discernable characteristics. In this period, the cocktail is but one clearly definable type of drink. Also, books from this period are faithful to the jigger (or wine-glass) as a unit of measure equaling two-fluid-ounces that is the basic portion of total liquor to be made into any type of mixed drink. Where books from this era give recipes for single-serving drinks containing multiple liquors, they will jigger them together into a total of two-fluid-ounces.
During the Foundational Era, the majority of drinks are based on primary spirits, such as brandy, whiskey and rum. But, gin is present and respected.
The Foundational Era begins with drinks already as-commonly sweetened by flavored syrups and liqueurs as they are by plain sugar or sugar syrup.
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 1827 | Cook, Richard | Oxford Night Caps | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 1862 | Thomas, Jerry | How to Mix Drinks | 4/5 | 5/5 |
| 1869 | Terrington. William | Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks | 4/5 | 3/5 |
| 1871 | Ricket, E. & Thomas, C. | The Gentleman’s Table Guide | 4/5 | 3/5 |
| 1878 | Engel, Leo | American & other Drinks | 4/5 | 2/5 |
1880 – 1908: THE GOLDEN AGE – the rise of gin and vermouth
Books from this period continue the practice of presenting drinks by types, and with the clear sense that cocktails are but one type of drink. They also remain faithful to the jigger as a unit of measure equaling two-fluid-ounces that is the total portion of liquor in mixed drinks.
It is during the Golden Age that gin begins to be more popular than other spirits. Also during this era, cocktails (real ones) that are sweetened by vermouth (in addition to – or instead of – sugar, syrups or liqueurs) become common.
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 1884 | Byron, O.H. | The Modern Bartender’s Guide | 4/5 | 5/5 |
| 1887 | Dick & Fitzgerald | Jerry Thomas’ Bar-tenders Guide | 4/5 | 5/5 |
| 1888 | Johnson, Harry | New and Improved Bartender’s Manual | 4/5 | 5/5 |
| 1891 | Boothby, William | American Bar-tender | 4/5 | 5/5 |
| 1892 | Schmidt, William | The Flowing Bowl | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1895 | Kappeler, George | Modern American Drinks | 5/5 | 5/5 |
| The above is one of the books that vie for consideration as the best all-around pre-prohibition drinks book. | ||||
| 1903 | Daly, Tim | Daly’s Bartender’s Encyclopedia | 4/5 | 4/5 |
| 1904 | Stuart, Thomas | Stuart’s Fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them | 4/5 | 4/5 |
| The above is the same as the 1896 edition, but with a 1904 addendum of “New and up-to-date Drinks” | ||||
| 1908 | Boothby, William | The World’s Drinks and How to Mix Them | 5/5 | 5/5 |
| The above is one of the books that vie for consideration as the best all-around pre-prohibition drinks book. | ||||
1909 – 1919: THE LATE PRE-PROHIBITION ERA – the breaking of the cocktail
Books from this period often group drinks alphabetically, usually mis-calling many other types of drinks “cocktails” – as long as they are served ‘up.’ This formless, alphabetical approach will eventually contribute to the idea that knowing drink names is as important as knowing their natures.
During the Late Pre-Prohibition Era, gin has completed its rise and gin-based drinks become the norm. Also, it was during this period that the first corruption of the Martini Cocktail gathered steam - with drinks such as the Good Times Cocktail and Hoffman House Cocktail being called "Martinis" or "Dry Martinis"
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 1910 | Grohusko, Jack | Jack’s Manual on the Vintage and Production, Care and Handling of Wines, Liquors, etc. | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1914 | Straub, Jacques | Drinks | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1917 | Bullock, Tom | The Ideal Bartender | 2/5 | 3/5 |
| 1917 | Ensslin, Hugo | Recipes for Mixed Drinks | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1935 | Crockett, Albert | The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book | 4/5 | 5/5 |
| The above is listed here for its transmission of the recipes compiled in the Waldorf Hotel Bar from 1897 through 1919. | ||||
1920 – 1934: THE PROHIBIITON ERA – the complete debasement of the cocktail
The Prohibition Era exhibits the supremacy of the image of the so-called “cocktail” over the elemental reality of the traditional type of drink by the same name. For the first time, many books from this period actually call themselves “cocktail” books. These books tend to force all new drinks into cocktail goblets. This practice will eventually contribute to the breaking of the jigger.
The Prohibition Era continues the supremacy of gin, and actually expands upon it.
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 1922 | MacElhone, Harry | Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1922 | Vermeire, Robert | Cocktails: How to Mix Them | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1926 | John Hamilton Publishers, Limited | The Cocktail Book | 3/5 | 3/5 |
| 1930 | Craddock, Harry | The Savoy Cocktail Book | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 1932 | Sloppy Joe’s Bar (Cuba) | Sloppy Joe’s Cocktails Manual | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1934 | Boothby’s World Drinks Company | Boothby’s World Drinks and How to Mix Them | 2/5 | 5/5 |
1935 – 1949: THE REPEAL ERA – the breaking of the jigger
Books from this period expand upon the shortcomings of the earlier post-Golden Age eras by divorcing their recipes from the jigger as the basic two-fluid-ounce portion of total liquor in mixed drinks. This is probably a consequence of the image-driven desire to fit drinks of various types into the iconic cocktail goblet.
It is noteworthy that during the Repeal Era, mixology begins to notice vodka.
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 1935 | Cotton, Leo | Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1935 | Crockett, Albert | The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book | 4/5 | 5/5 |
| The above is listed here for the drinks added by Crockett at the time of publication. See the earlier listing of this book. | ||||
| 1939 | Baker, Charles | The Gentleman’s Companion | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| The above has been re-issued as “Jigger, Beaker, & Glass: Drinking Around the World.” | ||||
| 1946 | Beebe, Lucius | The Stork Club Bar Book | 3/5 | 3/5 |
| 1946 | Bergeron, Victor (“Trader Vic”) | Trader Vic’s Book of Food & Drink | 3/5 | 3/5 |
| 1947 | Bergeron, Victor (“Trader Vic”) | Bartender’s Guide | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1948 | Embury, David | The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks | 3/5 | 5/5 |
1950 – 1969: THE BLANK ERA – the rise of vodka
Not many drinks books seem to have been published during this era – hence its name. Also appropriate to the name is the fact that during the Blank Era, vodka-based drinks become common, and nearly every bar begins to stock vodka.
It is noteworthy that during the Blank Era, tiki drinks enjoyed their greatest popularity. Tiki drinks do not form a genre, elementally-speaking – most of them are punches of one sub-genre or another. The unifying characteristic of tiki drinks is that they are all meant to be evocative of tropical exoticism.
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 1955 | Cotton, Leo | Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1960 | Cotton, Leo | Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1968 | Cotton, Leo | Old Mister Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide | 3/5 | 4/5 |
1970 – 1999: THE DRINKS NADIR ERA – the supremacy of vodka
Books from this period expand upon the shortcomings of the earlier post-Golden Age eras by becoming completely devoid of any sense of basic portions of total liquor.
Many books from the Drinks Nadir Era contain the words “complete” or “bible” in their titles – the suggestion being that the purchase of one book (and the reference to – or memorization of – the formless recipes found therein) can substitute for mixological knowledge.
It is during the Drinks Nadir Era that the word “cocktail” (in its de-based, image-driven meaning) is partially abandoned in favor of the word “Martini” – which likewise becomes largely de-based.
During the Drinks Nadir Era, pre-mixes and artificial mixers become common. Also, it is during this era that vodka-based drinks become the norm.
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 1977 | Jones, Stan | Jones’ Complete Barguide | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 1984 | Cotton, Leo | Mister Boston Official Bartender’s Guide | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1990 | Feller, Robyn | The Complete Bartender | 1/5 | 3/5 |
| 1993 | Sennett, Bob | Complete World Bartender | 2/5 | 3/5 |
| 1995 | Schumann, Charles | American Bar | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 1999 | Regan, Gary | The Bartender’s Bible | 3/5 | 4/5 |
2000 – ????: THE DRINKS RENAISSANCE ERA – bar-lore and echoes of the Prohibition Era
Books (and bars) in this period tend to restore freshness to the sour element. This restoration should not have been required to begin with, and it is perhaps a mistake to make much fuss over the return to fresh juices. It’s a bit like bragging about having recently stopped cheating on a significant other.
The Drinks Renaissance Era sees the expansion of the use of the aromatic element, especially in the form of additive bitters, spices and aromatic produce.
A common theme in this era and its drink books is that of a return to “correct” mixology and “proper cocktails.” Unfortunately, this does not include the return to the two-fluid-ounce jigger as the total portion of liquor in drinks – and many drinks are still served with too-much or too-little alcohol. The ridiculously-oversized cocktail goblet is still the home of many non-cocktails. There is a clear echo of the Prohibition Era in the fervent re-invigoration of the practice of mis-calling drinks “cocktails” to suggest their quality. The word “cocktail” returns to the titles of books from this period more than in any other since the Prohibition Era. Earlier books are widely reprinted during this era, but usually with a subtitle or blurb about them being “cocktail” books.
The word “mixology” is so loosely applied during the Drinks Renaissance Era that many actual mixologists abandon the word itself.
During this era, many bar professionals attempt to roll-back the use of the word “Matini” in its baseless, image-driven sense – even though they largely fail to do the same for the word “cocktail.”
It is probably a result of a generalized retrograde view that the Drinks Renaissance Era exhibits the ascendancy of bar-lore – the tales associated with the creation of individual historic drinks. Bar-lore usually focuses on personalities and happenstance rather than mixological principles and evolution. Unfortunately, bar-lore is often mistaken for mixology.
Likewise retrograde in view is the re-embrace of gin – a clear and deliberate echo of the supremacy of gin during the Prohibition Era.
Another echo of the Prohibition Era found in the Drinks Renaissance Era is the commercial success of the so-called ‘speakeasy’ type bar.
| year | author | title | mixology rating | extant drinks study rating |
| 2002 | DeGroff, Dale | The Craft of the Cocktail | 3/5 | 3/5 |
| 2002 | Poister, John | New American Bartender’s Guide | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 2003 | Regan, Gary | The Joy of Mixology | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 2005 | Paragon Publishing | 1001 Cocktails | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 2006 | Difford, Simon | Cocktails #6 | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 2006 | Barton Incorporated | Mister Boston Platinum Edition | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| 2008 | Albert, Bridget & Barranco, Mary | Market Fresh Mixology: Cocktails for Every Season | 4/5 | 3/5 |
| 2008 | DeGroff, Dale | The Essential Cocktail | 3/5 | 3/5 |
| 2008 | Difford, Simon | Cocktails #7 | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 2009 | Difford, Simon | Cocktails #8 | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 2009 | Difford, Simon | Difford’s Encyclopedia of Cocktails {Cocktails #8} | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 2010 | Abou-Ganim, Tony & Batali, Mario & Faulkner, Elizabeth | The Modern Mixologist: Contemporary Classic Cocktails | 4/5 | 3/5 |
| 2010 | Difford, Simon | Cocktails #9 | 3/5 | 5/5 |
| 2010 | Kosmas, Jason & Zaric, Dushan | Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails Reimagined | 4/5 | 3/5 |
OLD-FASHIONED SHERBET AND TRADITIONAL, FIVE-ELEMENT PUNCH
OLD-FASHIONED SHERBET AND TRADITIONAL, FIVE-ELEMENT PUNCH
by Andrew “the Alchemist”
Sherbet is now mainly thought of in its frozen version, but unfrozen old-fashioned sherbet was once commonly used to make superior punches. Contrary to what has been recently suggested, making sherbet the old-fashioned way by rubbing lump sugar against lemons is perfectly possible. It is also culinarily preferable to muddling strips of lemon peel into granulated sugar – which fails to obtain deeply yellow sherbet sugar, and invariably adds bitterness from the white pith. La Perruche™ and Comptoir du Sud™ are recommended brands of old-fashioned lump sugar that is solid enough for old-fashioned lemon-rubbing.
The first stage of making old-fashioned sherbet yields sherbet sugar, or oleo-saccharum. Sherbet sugar contains the aromatic and sweet elements.
The second stage of making old-fashioned sherbet yields rump sherbet. Rump sherbet contains the aromatic, sour and sweet elements.
The third stage yields fully-fledged, old-fashioned sherbet. Old-fashioned sherbet contains the aromatic, sour, sweet and weak elements.
To make a traditional, five-element punch from old-fashioned sherbet, the strong element is added to it.
Following the instructions below will produce old-fashioned sherbet, the amount of which will be appropriate for making a traditional, five-element punch that will yield 12 servings of 6 fluid-ounces {180 milliliters} each, in the proportions of 2:1:4:3. That is two parts of sour, one part of sweet, four parts of strong, and three parts of weak. These proportions allow nicely for the additional amount of the weak element that will be incidentally added in the form of ice-meltage that will occur as the punch sits. When the punch is served, each 6 fluid-ounce {180 milliliter} serving will contain almost exactly the traditional jigger {2 fluid-ounces | 60 milliliters} of liquor.
To make sherbet sugar in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch:
- begin with room-temperature lemons
- find the average juice yield per type and size of the lemons on hand
- the average yield is usually between 1 fluid-ounce {30 milliliters} and 1-1/2 fluid-ounces {45 milliliters}
- select enough of the lemons to yield 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} of juice, with a little extra for good measure
- soak the lemons in pure water that is not too cold for 15 minutes
- use paper towels to dab the lemons dry, without rubbing or using much force
- thoroughly wash, rinse and dry hands
- rub old-fashioned lump sugar forcefully against the exterior {zest} of the lemons
- do this over a large, glass measuring cup with a capacity of 2 cups or more
- when the rubbed side of the sugar lump appears deeply yellow, turn it and continue to rub
- rotate each lemon as needed to obtain the essential oil from the entire zest
- as each lump of sugar becomes fully saturated, drop it into the measuring cup
- as each lemon is rubbed of all of its available essential zest oil, reserve it and take up another intact lemon
- stop when the amount of saturated sugar lumps reaches a generous 3/4 cup {6 fluid-ounces | 180 milliliters}
- when taking the above measurement, don’t mind the dead space between lumps
- the stopping point for rubbing sugar should roughly coincide with all the selected lemons having been rubbed
- use a muddler to crush the saturated sugar lumps
- add granulated sugar to bring the total sugar amount to 3/4 cup {6 fluid-ounces | 180 milliliters} and reserve
- press the juice from the rubbed lemons until 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} juice is obtained and reserve it
- while pressing the juice, collect and reserve the pips {seeds} from the pressing tool, and the pressed lemon hulls
- reserve the pressed juice
- place the collected pips and reserved sugar preparation together in a mixing bowl
- use the muddler to abrase the pips with the sugar, breaking the mucilage and allowing its flavor into the sugar
- it is not desirable to break or crush the pips any more than occurs incidentally
At this point, the preparation becomes sherbet sugar, or oleo-saccharum. If not going on, the pips should be carefully picked out. If going on to make rump sherbet, it is not necessary to pick out the pips, as they will be strained out.
To continue and make rump sherbet in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch:
- begin with the above preparation of sherbet sugar {the pips need not have been picked out}
- add the 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} of lemon juice that was reserved from above
- used the muddler to continue crushing any lump sugar that may be left, and to free any impacted sherbet sugar from it
- stir very well, until all of the sherbet sugar is dissolved into the lemon juice
- pour through a fine strainer into another mixing bowl
- If any appreciable amount of un-dissolved sugar is seen while pouring, stop pouring and stir more, before resuming straining
At this point, the preparation becomes rump sherbet. The yield at this point should be almost exactly 2 cups.
If used within 24 hours, rump sherbet is excellent from which to make such variants of punch as swizzles, fixes, sours, fizzes and Collinses with - as long as not too much of the jigger is taken up by liqueur. That would probably make the drink too sweet. For making any of these individual punches, combine 1-1/3 fluid-ounces {40 milliliters} of the above preparation of rump sherbet to the traditional jigger {2 fluid-ounces | 60 milliliters} of total liquor. This amount of rump sherbet contains almost exactly 1 fluid-ounce {30 milliliters} of lemon juice and 1 level-tablespoon {15 milliliters} of sugar. This results in an individual drink with the proportions of 2 parts of sour, 1 part of sweet, and 4 parts of strong {and incidental method-related dilution} – which is traditional, and a good starting point - though it may be slightly too-sour for some tastes.
It can be noted here that proportions should always be considered with dry sugar amounts for familiarity with the amount of sweetness involved. This is why I advocate the use of 1:1 sugar syrup when sugar syrup is to be used. Made with equal parts (by volume) of sugar and water, converting from any amount of dry sugar can be easily accomplished by multiplying the dry sugar amount 1-1/2 times. For example, 3/4 fluid-ounce {22.5 milliliters} of 1:1 sugar syrup contains almost exactly 1 level tablespoon {15 milliliters} of sugar {because 15 x 1.5 = 22.5}.
To continue and make old-fashioned sherbet in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch in the 2:1:4:3 proportions:
- begin with the above preparation of rump sherbet
- add 2-1/4 cups {18 fluid-ounces | 540 milliliters} of pure water
- stir until evenly mixed
At this point, the preparation becomes old-fashioned sherbet.
To continue and make a 12-serving batch of punch in the 2:1:4:3 proportions:
- begin with the above preparation of old-fashioned sherbet
- pour the old-fashioned sherbet into an 8 quart punch bowl
- add 3 cups {24 fluid-ounces | 720 milliliters} of liquor(s) {example: one 750 milliliter bottle minus 1 fluid-ounce – or just pour in the whole bottle}
- stir until evenly mixed
- taste the punch
- if desired, add sweetness by stirring in more granulated sugar {if part of the 3 cups of liquor contains liqueur, this should not be necessary}
- if desired, add more aromatic elements {examples: additive bitters, or spices tied into a cheesecloth bundle or placed into a commercially-available spice bag}
- stir, cover and reserve for at least 2 hours to let the flavors marry
- if a spice bundle or bag was added, remove it now
- add as much of the largest-sized ice as will fit
- garnish with garniture of choice {examples: citrus wheels or seasonal berries}
- place the punch in an inviting location, with a ladle
- in a nearby place, arrange clean punch cups of a size that will easily hold a 6 fluid-ounce portion of the punch
Enjoy!
P.S. Making sherbet sugar, rump sherbet and fully-fledged old-fashioned sherbet is an important part of the Elemental Mixology Fabrication Course {EMFC} that I teach in the Los Angeles area. Check it out at www.elementalmixology.com for course dates when you can be taught in a hands-on manner to make your own old-fashioned sherbet by a mixologist with a formal culinary background {me!}.
- Andrew
by Andrew “the Alchemist”
Sherbet is now mainly thought of in its frozen version, but unfrozen old-fashioned sherbet was once commonly used to make superior punches. Contrary to what has been recently suggested, making sherbet the old-fashioned way by rubbing lump sugar against lemons is perfectly possible. It is also culinarily preferable to muddling strips of lemon peel into granulated sugar – which fails to obtain deeply yellow sherbet sugar, and invariably adds bitterness from the white pith. La Perruche™ and Comptoir du Sud™ are recommended brands of old-fashioned lump sugar that is solid enough for old-fashioned lemon-rubbing.
The first stage of making old-fashioned sherbet yields sherbet sugar, or oleo-saccharum. Sherbet sugar contains the aromatic and sweet elements.
The second stage of making old-fashioned sherbet yields rump sherbet. Rump sherbet contains the aromatic, sour and sweet elements.
The third stage yields fully-fledged, old-fashioned sherbet. Old-fashioned sherbet contains the aromatic, sour, sweet and weak elements.
To make a traditional, five-element punch from old-fashioned sherbet, the strong element is added to it.
Following the instructions below will produce old-fashioned sherbet, the amount of which will be appropriate for making a traditional, five-element punch that will yield 12 servings of 6 fluid-ounces {180 milliliters} each, in the proportions of 2:1:4:3. That is two parts of sour, one part of sweet, four parts of strong, and three parts of weak. These proportions allow nicely for the additional amount of the weak element that will be incidentally added in the form of ice-meltage that will occur as the punch sits. When the punch is served, each 6 fluid-ounce {180 milliliter} serving will contain almost exactly the traditional jigger {2 fluid-ounces | 60 milliliters} of liquor.
To make sherbet sugar in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch:
- begin with room-temperature lemons
- find the average juice yield per type and size of the lemons on hand
- the average yield is usually between 1 fluid-ounce {30 milliliters} and 1-1/2 fluid-ounces {45 milliliters}
- select enough of the lemons to yield 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} of juice, with a little extra for good measure
- soak the lemons in pure water that is not too cold for 15 minutes
- use paper towels to dab the lemons dry, without rubbing or using much force
- thoroughly wash, rinse and dry hands
- rub old-fashioned lump sugar forcefully against the exterior {zest} of the lemons
- do this over a large, glass measuring cup with a capacity of 2 cups or more
- when the rubbed side of the sugar lump appears deeply yellow, turn it and continue to rub
- rotate each lemon as needed to obtain the essential oil from the entire zest
- as each lump of sugar becomes fully saturated, drop it into the measuring cup
- as each lemon is rubbed of all of its available essential zest oil, reserve it and take up another intact lemon
- stop when the amount of saturated sugar lumps reaches a generous 3/4 cup {6 fluid-ounces | 180 milliliters}
- when taking the above measurement, don’t mind the dead space between lumps
- the stopping point for rubbing sugar should roughly coincide with all the selected lemons having been rubbed
- use a muddler to crush the saturated sugar lumps
- add granulated sugar to bring the total sugar amount to 3/4 cup {6 fluid-ounces | 180 milliliters} and reserve
- press the juice from the rubbed lemons until 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} juice is obtained and reserve it
- while pressing the juice, collect and reserve the pips {seeds} from the pressing tool, and the pressed lemon hulls
- reserve the pressed juice
- place the collected pips and reserved sugar preparation together in a mixing bowl
- use the muddler to abrase the pips with the sugar, breaking the mucilage and allowing its flavor into the sugar
- it is not desirable to break or crush the pips any more than occurs incidentally
At this point, the preparation becomes sherbet sugar, or oleo-saccharum. If not going on, the pips should be carefully picked out. If going on to make rump sherbet, it is not necessary to pick out the pips, as they will be strained out.
To continue and make rump sherbet in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch:
- begin with the above preparation of sherbet sugar {the pips need not have been picked out}
- add the 1-1/2 cups {12 fluid-ounces | 360 milliliters} of lemon juice that was reserved from above
- used the muddler to continue crushing any lump sugar that may be left, and to free any impacted sherbet sugar from it
- stir very well, until all of the sherbet sugar is dissolved into the lemon juice
- pour through a fine strainer into another mixing bowl
- If any appreciable amount of un-dissolved sugar is seen while pouring, stop pouring and stir more, before resuming straining
At this point, the preparation becomes rump sherbet. The yield at this point should be almost exactly 2 cups.
If used within 24 hours, rump sherbet is excellent from which to make such variants of punch as swizzles, fixes, sours, fizzes and Collinses with - as long as not too much of the jigger is taken up by liqueur. That would probably make the drink too sweet. For making any of these individual punches, combine 1-1/3 fluid-ounces {40 milliliters} of the above preparation of rump sherbet to the traditional jigger {2 fluid-ounces | 60 milliliters} of total liquor. This amount of rump sherbet contains almost exactly 1 fluid-ounce {30 milliliters} of lemon juice and 1 level-tablespoon {15 milliliters} of sugar. This results in an individual drink with the proportions of 2 parts of sour, 1 part of sweet, and 4 parts of strong {and incidental method-related dilution} – which is traditional, and a good starting point - though it may be slightly too-sour for some tastes.
It can be noted here that proportions should always be considered with dry sugar amounts for familiarity with the amount of sweetness involved. This is why I advocate the use of 1:1 sugar syrup when sugar syrup is to be used. Made with equal parts (by volume) of sugar and water, converting from any amount of dry sugar can be easily accomplished by multiplying the dry sugar amount 1-1/2 times. For example, 3/4 fluid-ounce {22.5 milliliters} of 1:1 sugar syrup contains almost exactly 1 level tablespoon {15 milliliters} of sugar {because 15 x 1.5 = 22.5}.
To continue and make old-fashioned sherbet in an appropriate quantity from which to eventually make a 12-serving batch of punch in the 2:1:4:3 proportions:
- begin with the above preparation of rump sherbet
- add 2-1/4 cups {18 fluid-ounces | 540 milliliters} of pure water
- stir until evenly mixed
At this point, the preparation becomes old-fashioned sherbet.
To continue and make a 12-serving batch of punch in the 2:1:4:3 proportions:
- begin with the above preparation of old-fashioned sherbet
- pour the old-fashioned sherbet into an 8 quart punch bowl
- add 3 cups {24 fluid-ounces | 720 milliliters} of liquor(s) {example: one 750 milliliter bottle minus 1 fluid-ounce – or just pour in the whole bottle}
- stir until evenly mixed
- taste the punch
- if desired, add sweetness by stirring in more granulated sugar {if part of the 3 cups of liquor contains liqueur, this should not be necessary}
- if desired, add more aromatic elements {examples: additive bitters, or spices tied into a cheesecloth bundle or placed into a commercially-available spice bag}
- stir, cover and reserve for at least 2 hours to let the flavors marry
- if a spice bundle or bag was added, remove it now
- add as much of the largest-sized ice as will fit
- garnish with garniture of choice {examples: citrus wheels or seasonal berries}
- place the punch in an inviting location, with a ladle
- in a nearby place, arrange clean punch cups of a size that will easily hold a 6 fluid-ounce portion of the punch
Enjoy!
P.S. Making sherbet sugar, rump sherbet and fully-fledged old-fashioned sherbet is an important part of the Elemental Mixology Fabrication Course {EMFC} that I teach in the Los Angeles area. Check it out at www.elementalmixology.com for course dates when you can be taught in a hands-on manner to make your own old-fashioned sherbet by a mixologist with a formal culinary background {me!}.
- Andrew
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