Tart Citrus Varieties: Beyond Lemons & Limes
By Andrew “the Alchemist”
Monday, September 21, 2010
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Punches are as popular as ever. A huge percentage of the drinks errantly called ‘cocktails’ are actually punches. That means that understanding tart citrus juices is important. Perhaps one day, we will have more ingredient awareness than to think, speak, and write, in the over-simplified terms of ‘lemon juice’ and ‘lime juice.’
Here is my little effort toward that day.
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The True Lemons (citrus limon):
→ The Eureka lemon (citrus limon ‘Eureka’) is the most common lemon available in the U.S.A. It is known for its high acid level and good juice yield. When an American drink recipe calls for lemon juice, it can virtually always be satisfied with that of the Eureka lemon.
→ The Lisbon lemon (citrus limon ‘Lisbon’) is less common than the Eureka lemon. It is known for having an even higher acid level than the Eureka lemon. It also gives a good juice yield, and contains fewer seeds (or is even seedless). In the U.S.A., it is probably safe to assume that any lemon sold as being “seedless” is a Lisbon lemon. The juice of the Lisbon lemon is perfectly acceptable in mixed drinks. Just be aware that American drink recipes have evolved for the use of Eureka lemons and that if you use Lisbon lemons instead, the drink may require a little more sweetening.
→ The Ponderosa lemon (citrus limon ‘Ponderosa’) is not commonly available as a commercial product in the U.S.A. In certain areas, however, it is not uncommon to find Ponderosa lemons growing on private property. Ponderosa lemon trees are hardy and can endure frosts. The Ponderosa lemon is larger than most other true lemons – sometimes growing as large as a grapefruit. The pith is also rather thick and the fruit contains a plenty of seeds. The Ponderosa lemon yields a lot of juice that, in my experience, is about as acidic as that of the Eureka lemon.
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The Meyer Lemon (citrus meyeri):
→ The Meyer lemon is a cross between some variety of true lemon (citrus limon) and either the mandarin (citrus reticulata) or the common orange (citrus sinensis). It is has a lower acid content and is noticeably sweeter than any true lemon. Its juice may be used in drinks, but less sweetening should be required than for the same drink made with the juice of any true lemon.
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The Citron (citrus medica):
→ The citron, known also as the ‘cedrat,’ ‘yuzu’ or ‘etrog,’ is a more ancient citrus than most. There is evidence that it is what the ancient Greeks meant when they referred to the Medean apple. ’Citrus medica’ means ‘citrus of the Medes,' and Persia may be its place of origin. Citron peel is highly aromatic and used in Italy in fruitcake. Citrons are rarely sold as fresh produce, except in Jewish markets just before Sukkot at the beginning of Autumn. The juice of the citron is very tart. The zest of the citron is also more flavorful than that of most other tart citrus.
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And now we move onto limes. There is no single species of lime. The word ‘lime’ is applied to any citrus that is best used before it is ripe.
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The Key Lime (citrus aurantifolia):
→ The Key lime, also once known as the ‘bartender’s lime’ or the ‘West Indian lime,’ was the lime meant by any American drink recipe written before 1926. In 1926, a hurricane destroyed most of the U.S.A.’s domestic Key limes. Since that time the Persian lime has been the main lime sold commercially in the U.S.A. Outside of North America, the Key lime is more common than the Persian lime. The Key lime is smaller than the Persian lime and contains more seeds. But, the Key lime is more aromatic and flavorful than the Persian lime. In my opinion, the juice of the Key lime will usually produce a better-tasting drink than that of the Persian lime. The juice of the Key lime is more acidic than that of the Persian lime, and a drink made with it may need more sweetening. The zest and pith of the Key lime is rather bitter. Care should always be taken to keep its zest and pith out of drinks. Key limes are used in Brazil to make the Caipirinha, where cutting the flesh free of the zest and pith before muddling is considered a necessary art. The Key lime is best used when still green before it is ripe.
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The Persian Lime (citrus latifolia):
The Persian lime, also known as the ‘Tahiti lime,’ is the most common available lime in North America. Many (including myself) find that its flavor is not as good as that of the Key lime. But, since the seedless variety of the Persian lime is most common, many people prefer it for that reason – and because it also yields more juice. Persian limes are less acidic than Key limes, so drinks made with them require less sweetening. The zest and pith of the Persian lime is also less bitter than that of the Key lime – and therefore less of a hazard to a drink, should zest or pith end up in it. The Persian lime is best used when still green before it is ripe.
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